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2010 Chevrolet Camaro SS Gets Catalytic Converters, Intake & Headers - Breathin' Easy - TechWe Help Our 2010 Camaro SS Breathe A Little Easier And Pick Up Some Great Power In The Process From the September, 2010 issue of GM High-Tech Performance By Justin Cesler Photography by Justin Cesler
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If GM enthusiasts have learned anything over time, it is that improving airflow into and out of the stock engine always results in noticeable gains on the street, dyno, and track. Really, this is simple logic, as we all know that an engine is nothing more than an air pump and the faster and more efficiently it pumps, the faster we get to go. Of course, this doesn't mean that we can just bolt on any old intake and exhaust and run some numbers at the track. On the contrary, now more than ever it is important to pick quality components that have been engineered to work well on a specific application, as besting the factory is getting harder and harder as new engines ship from GM making more and more power on the same cubic inches. After letting Greg Lovell's... After letting Greg Lovell's 2010 Camaro cool down, we got it in the air and began unbolting the old exhaust. The first step was to remove the factory crossbrace, using a 15mm socket. Take, for example, our bone-stock LS3, which shipped from GM to owner Greg Lovell with 393.37 rwhp and 395.45 lb-ft of torque. Think about that, 393 rwhp from a stock Camaro-our beloved fourth-generation cars barely made that with all the bolt-ons and a good camshaft! Completely stock, Greg had ran a best of 13.276 at 110 mph, the result of a dismal 2.353 60-foot time and a heavy chassis with an independent rearend. Knowing that the stock LS3 was doing its job, evident from the 110-mph traps, we spent our last track day trying to get his car to hook, adding a set of 305/45/18 Nitto NT05R drag radials, a pair of Pfadt trailing arms, and a pair of The Drive Shaft Shop axles, to help keep everything together. With just those modifications and still a completely stock motor, Greg ran as fast as 12.871 at 112 mph, which really showed us just how powerful the LS3 is, even in a nearly 4,000-pound Camaro. Up front, the stock cat-back... Up front, the stock cat-back pipes are held on using these slip clamps, which can be removed using a 15mm socket and a screwdriver to pry the slip clasp off of the stock retaining nut. With our 60-foot times getting better, now at a more respectable but far from ideal 2.069, we finally decided to turn our attention to making more horsepower, opting to do some very simple bolt-on modifications that could easily be done in your driveway using simple handtools. We knew that we wanted to make over 400 rwhp and would love to see a 12.60 (or better) e.t., so our first call was to American Racing Headers in Amityville, New York, to order a pair of its 1 7/8-inch stainless steel long-tube headers, along with a set of street legal catalytic converters and a complete ARH 3-inch mandrel bent cat-back. Thanks to the fabricators and engineers at ARH, we knew this system would be efficient and top quality, both things we value highly on an almost brand new Camaro. After our long-tube headers and X-pipe had shipped, we realized that we didn't really want to keep the stock mufflers either, since they look atrocious and are much too quiet for a bright-orange muscle car. A quick email to the good folks at LM Performance got us back on track, as they were able to quickly ship us a new American Racing Headers axle-back muffler system, which included two new mufflers and the necessary 2.5-inch pipes to hook directly to our new header system with absolutely no fuss. With the exhaust taken care of, we reached way back in our parts bin and dusted off a brand-new ADM Performance "Race" cold-air intake, a system we have been looking to test for quite some time. According to Andy Mages, owner of ADM Performance, this intake was designed to grab and meter cold air from outside the engine bay, which results in increased horsepower and torque, without any driveability compromises. Unlike the ADM Street intake, which we tested, albeit incorrectly, in our May 2010 issue ("Suck on This"), the race intake adds a bottom duct to the existing box design, which works in conjunction with the factory ducting system to bring cold air into the engine, while keeping the heat-soaked engine bay air out of the equation.  With the front cat-back connection...  With the front cat-back connection loose, Greg began removing the stock mufflers from their hangers, two in the middle of the car and two above each exhaust tip.  You will need two people to...  You will need two people to remove the exhaust, which simply slides down and forward after being released from the stock hangers. If it proves a bit difficult, WD-40 is your friend!  Back up top, Greg removed...  Back up top, Greg removed the factory spark plug wires and spark plugs before beginning to remove the factory manifold-to-cylinder head bolts. On the passenger side he removed the dipstick using a 15mm socket.  Using a 13mm socket on his...  Using a 13mm socket on his trusty air-ratchet, Greg removed the stock manifold bolts, being careful not to let the manifold drop too far after removing the last bolt.  With all 12 manifold-to-cylinder...  With all 12 manifold-to-cylinder head bolts removed and the 02 sensor plugs unclipped, Greg slowly raised the 2010 Camaro on the lift and let the stock manifolds and catalytic converters slide right out the bottom.  Compared to the stock units,...  Compared to the stock units, these American Racing Headers (ARH) 1 7/8-inch long-tubes look like a million bucks. With mandrel bent tubing, TIG welded and hand ported inlets and 3/8-inch flanges, these long-tubes will support a ton of power and last a lifetime.  With the stock manifolds out...  With the stock manifolds out of the way, Greg unbolted the steering shaft (11mm socket) and slid it up and out of the way. Thanks to some GM foresight, this is a breeze to do and opens up a lot of room to work.  Our new American Racing Headers...  Our new American Racing Headers long-tube headers slid right into place on both sides, no tricks or tips needed, they just fit perfectly.  Once the header was in place,...  Once the header was in place, Greg bolted the steering shaft back in its original position and tightened the stock 02 sensor in its supplied bung.
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