It's common knowledge that EFI power doesn't come cheap. Typical EFI modification cost is $40-50 per horsepower. About a buck a pound is good for weight reduction. That's $100 for a hundred pounds, which coincides with the $10/hp rule. At this level it takes about 10 hp to go a tenth quicker or you can remove 100 pounds for the same one tenth reduction in ET.
Dirt cheap translates into making your own parts when ever you can. I spend my lunch time, much to the annoyance of the Journeymen at work, making parts and excessive noise. With only one running machine at lunchtime in the shop it's pretty easy to get "called out" for chattering an end mill across a work piece. "Stop yelling at me," I often say, "You're making me nervous; I'm going to cut my fingers off." A big thanks to all the guys at work who have helped me make noise.
Dirt cheap means there is no money for any sort of dyno testing. This is not a problem with the computer-controlled LT1. A statistical analysis of Free Scan's data log is all you'll need to provide a reliable and conservative tune. The stock knock sensor and timing retard functions will help protect you from yourself. After extensive data-logging detonation testing I've decided to leave the stock knock sensor intact at a reduced efficiency. Common tuning practice includes advancing the timing until MPH stops increasing down the quarter mile then back it off a couple degrees. I disagree. This probably does represent best "average" power, however, this practice may be overly aggressive throughout the entire rpm range resulting in areas along the curve that are in distress (knocking). This distress may be the straw that breaks the camel's back and sends the already heavily stressed stock engine components down onto the racing surface. Check your data and plugs for any signs of knock.
In addition to the analysis of Free Scan's data logs, there are at least three tools used to evaluate the car's performance: an engine simulation, a drag strip simulation, and the Pro Stock ET formulas. I don't go to the track without a "virtual" ET reduction guarantee. The short version here; every mph supports a minimum ET, if the ET doesn't match the MPH you have a drive train/chassis mismatch. The objective is always to add MPH while maintaining the new ET requirement.
At the time the car went 11.00 the investment was under $2,000, with 117,000 miles on the clock. The car still had all the amenities it came with: A/C, power brakes, ABS, cruise, power steering, air bags, etc.
I'm transitioning the car now, preparing for 10.60s. It'll take more power and less weight to run that fast on the stock components, so most amenities are on their way out. I may add headers and some form of ram air with speed density tuning, no MAF. I still drive the car to work 23 miles one way every day--rain, snow, or shine. It now has 127,000 miles on it.