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LS-1 F-Body Free Modifications - Take the Money & Run

One LS1, five free mods, 10 rear-wheel horsepower.
August, 2009
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Before any mods were done... 
   
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Before any mods were done to the 3.23-geared, auto-equipped T/A, we spent April 1 at Englishtown's Raceway Park for baseline drag testing. Loaded with such goodies as leather and T-tops and weighing in at 3486 pounds, the Pontiac was hardly a lightweight. But a best ET of 13.36 at 102.86 miles an hour was no April Fool's joke.
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Next stop: Toms River, New... 
   
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Next stop: Toms River, New Jersey and SLP for a session on its high-tech SuperFlow SF-840 chassis dyno. With the wideband O2 installed and AutoTap running, the LS1 funneled 292.2 horses and 299.0 lb.-ft. of torque to the rear wheels. No knock retard was seen on the baseline runs, and the air/fuel ratio was a safe 11.8 to 1.
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First up is the airlid mod.... 
   
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First up is the airlid mod. From the factory, the voracious LS1 is forced to breathe through a tiny slit in the airbox ducting. To get more airflow on the cheap, loosen the factory airlid base by unscrewing the four 10mm bolts. Unsnap the airlid and remove it with the MAF still attached. We have two culprits here: the radiator support and the air dam. Remove both from the car.
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On the airdam, more flow will... 
   
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On the airdam, more flow will be seen by removing an area as wide as the slot down to the ridge. Use your choice of weapons--a jigsaw blade or a sharp utility knife will do the job, but a die grinder with a cutoff wheel works best--to cut a rectangular chunk out of the plastic as seen here.
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For the radiator support,... 
   
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For the radiator support, leave the filter tray installed as a loose guide and mark around the insides of each square. Pull the tray out and grind away the two squares in the center area of the support.
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Your finished support should... 
   
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Your finished support should look something like this--and will flow a ton more air.
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With the MAF off the car,... 
   
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With the MAF off the car, now is a good time to remove the screen for maximum flow. There are no snap rings holding the screen in place, so you can gently push it out the back of the mass airflow sensor. Be sure to avoid the three elements in the center of the MAF; any damage done can cause serious problems. Be sure there is no extraneous debris in the sensor before replacing it. Once that is done, the MAF can be placed back into the intake tract resonator and the hose clamp can be tightened down.
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A home-ground throttle body... 
   
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A home-ground throttle body is an easy way to get more air into the Gen. III engine. To perform this procedure, unhook the throttle position sensor (TPS) and idle air control sensor (IAC) connectors from the throttle body. The throttle cable and coolant hoses are removed also, then the three 10mm bolts holding the throttle body were removed.
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The TB was taken to a workbench... 
   
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The TB was taken to a workbench and mounted in a vise; a carbide bit and some 80- and 120-grit paper rolls were waiting for it. Porting the Gen. III's throttle body is done to remove a restrictive ridge in front of the throttle blade and to generally make the contours smooth. You want to take out the turbulence and increase velocity, but don't go hog-wild because the carbide bit can burn through pretty quickly. Use the 80-grit to smooth out the carbide burr cuts, and the 120-grit to polish the throttle body smooth.
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Any sharp edge on the throttle... 
   
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Any sharp edge on the throttle body should be buffed down. "Make it smooth and curvy, like a fine woman," suggested SLP Chief Engineer Brian Reese. Mmm, curvy.
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Anyway, don't do heavy porting... 
   
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Anyway, don't do heavy porting in the idle air bypass area--that will force air into this spot that doesn't need any more.
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Mild port work is performed... 
   
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Mild port work is performed on the back side as well, and the throttle blade screws are ground down. Once the TB is cleaned up, it is ready for reinstallation.
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For those LS1 owners not blessed... 
   
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For those LS1 owners not blessed with the stellar LS6 manifold, there is the EGR mod. The tube that enters on top of the composite manifold hangs down into the air stream, but a quick chop to the EGR tube's manhood will remove this obvious obstruction right after the throttle body.
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The EGR modification is done... 
   
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The EGR modification is done by removing the 10mm bolt holding the tube into the manifold. Once the tube is out and the O-ring is removed, cut the tube right below the hat mount ridge with a die grinder or a cutoff wheel. Be advised: if you cut the hat mount, the hat will fall off and there will be no way to remount it.
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Once the cut has been made,... 
   
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Once the cut has been made, use any file to de-burr the shortened tube before reinstalling it with the O-ring and the bolt.
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Bypassing the throttle body... 
   
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Bypassing the throttle body coolant line came next. In this photo with the throttle body off, the rubber line that goes from the radiator to the TB is seen on the left, with the metal line connection that takes the TB's rubber hose on the right.
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The factory hose coming off... 
   
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The factory hose coming off of the radiator outlet is unhooked and discarded.
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5/16-inch hose will be used... 
   
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5/16-inch hose will be used for the bypass to connect the radiator outlet directly to the flow crossover tube, and regular worm clamps are preferred over the factory clamps to get the line nice and tight.
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With everything bolted back... 
   
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With everything bolted back up, there is no indication of mod-based mischief here. The Trans Am's LS1 still looked stock, but would it pick up any power?
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Another spin on SLP's dyno... 
   
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Another spin on SLP's dyno answered that question. From a baseline of 292.2 horses and 299.0 lb.-ft. of torque, five free mods bumped the '99 T/A's power to 302.3, with 306.6 lb.-ft. showing at the rollers.
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That's a whopping 10.1 horsepower... 
   
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That's a whopping 10.1 horsepower and 7.6 pound-feet for free!
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On the next track day, we... 
   
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On the next track day, we brought the T/A down to see if it could improve on the 13.45 average elapsed time recorded in stock form. Although the weather conditions weren't as favorable as they were during the baseline testing (see "Track Testing"), the T/A was able to eek out a 13.38 ET best, with almost 104 miles an hour on a previous run. That gain was nearly 1 mile an hour in hotter conditions, and best of all, no adverse driveability issues have been seen on the Pontiac.
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We were also curious to see... 
   
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We were also curious to see if any of this skullduggery would have an effect on the air/fuel ratio.
TRACK TESTING
Baseline-April 1, 2003, Englishtown, N.J.
Temp: 56º Humidity: 40% Barometer: 30.35 Density Altitude: -725 feet a.m.
Launch rpm 60-foot time 1/8 1/4 MPH
1200 2.26 8.84 13.62 102.91
1200 2.06 8.61 13.37 103.02
1200 2.04 8.59 13.36 102.86
Average 2.12 8.68 13.45 102.93
         
Free mods--June 17, 2003, Englishtown, N.J.
Temp: 80º Humidity: 35% Barometer: 30.32 Density Altitude: 920 feet a.m.
Launch rpm 60-foot time 1/8 1/4 MPH
1200 2.10 8.68 13.40 103.99
1200 2.06 8.66 13.42 103.25
1200 2.05 8.64 13.38 103.21
Average 2.07 8.66 13.40 103.48


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