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2004 Pontiac GTO Exhaust Intake Install - Back in Black

GMHTP's Drag Pak slashes the 2004 GTO's ETs
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Stock as a rock, our automatic-tranny... 
   
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Stock as a rock, our automatic-tranny 2004 GTO mustered 290.4 horsepower and 297.6 lb.-ft. at the rear wheels. As this equates to about 363 horses at the engine, it is clear that GM is still underrating the LS1 engine a bit, which in this application they say puts out 350 horsepower. Fact and fiction comparisons aside, it's a good place to start.
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The Nitto NT-555R tire (left)... 
   
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The Nitto NT-555R tire (left) has a much more aggressive tread than the stockers. In this size, they retail for about $158 each. You can see that they are fully road-worthy too, with more than a 3/16-inch original tread depth. They are "only" V-rated, but we aren't planning on going anywhere near 149 mph, street or track. Since we haven't had a wheelspin problem at the GTO's current power level, the Nittos are "preventative maintenance" and will really shine later on. At the moment, a quick 5-second tire-cleaning burnout is all they need to be ready for a launch.
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SLP's "Power-Flo" Cat-Back... 
   
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SLP's "Power-Flo" Cat-Back Exhaust System, Part No. 31061, retails for $699.95. It is absolutely gorgeous, so highly polished that it is almost blinding. From a performance standpoint, the most notable differences from the stock system are the use of an "X" pipe and a 2.5-inch tube size throughout (the stock system is as small as 2 inches in some places).
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The true-dual exhaust system... 
   
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The true-dual exhaust system that comes with the GTO is no slouch by any means, as the General put hours of R and D into it. Note that what appears to be a crossover pipe is actually just a structural solid member; no gases pass through it. Though this crossover-less setup helps to make a burbly, old-school sound, it will not yield optimum horsepower.
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To remove the stock system,... 
   
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To remove the stock system, one must first dislodge the tailpipe, i.e., the piece leading from just behind the mufflers all the way to the tips. It is here that the stock system shows its worst qualities, what with its measly 2-inch pipe diameter. Pontiac does get some props, though, for using band-style clamps, making taking the pipes apart a snap. The 'mates really should have made them tighter, however, as they showed signs of leakage.

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The stock exhaust also uses... 
   
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The stock exhaust also uses one of the most unique hanger systems this author has ever seen, utilizing six rubber hangers that simply slip off horizontally, held only by an interesting brass clip. The clips came off fairly easily with the use of a screwdriver and some pliers, but we were sure to not to bend them too much as they would be reused.
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After unbolting the pipes... 
   
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After unbolting the pipes from the flanges just aft of the catalytic converters, the entire system (minus tailpipes) comes off in one piece. We suggest a two-person team for this step. We actually had three people, but one was taking the photo and another "hadn't finished mowing the lawn." Hence, Gary "Fat Pops" Werner experiences the Pain of One.
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Inside the stock muffler,... 
   
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Inside the stock muffler, one can see why it makes as much power as it does compared to an aftermarket system. It is a nearly straight-through design itself, far from your ordinary O.E.M. muffler. Remember though, that pipe going through there is definitely less than 2.5 inches in diameter and has a lot of perforations, so it does have some restriction to it.
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After loosely bolting SLP's... 
   
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After loosely bolting SLP's "X" pipe to the cat-forward portion of the exhaust, the SLP mufflers slip right on the back. These mufflers are a straight-through design, unlike a lot of other manufacturers' mufflers that use baffles. These puppies have just enough packing in them to deaden the offensive sounds, yet keep the good tones. The available resonators look almost identical from the outside and are a good bit lighter.
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This is a photo illustrating... 
   
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This is a photo illustrating what NOT to do with the intermediate pipe. Here we are trying to slip the pipe into the rubber hangers before sliding the pipe onto the back of the mufflers. This will just not work, as the rubber hangers do not stretch very far (they are an especially tight fit to get onto the O.E.M. brackets--WD40 helps a bunch). The pipe must be put onto the mufflers first, and then the rubber hangers pulled down onto the pipe hangers by hand.
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With the intermediate pipe... 
   
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With the intermediate pipe in place, the tail pipe is next to go on. It must slide rearward through the SLP-supplied rubber hangars under the bumper first, then onto the end of the intermediate pipe. Note the reuse of the stock brass clips to hold the rubber hangers in place; one may have to bend them back into shape a bit to get them to stay on correctly.
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As we know, no job is complete... 
   
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As we know, no job is complete without having to use a hammer, and this was no exception. The tail pipe needs some help getting onto the intermediate pipe, and another person must also hold on to the front of the tail pipe during hammering so that it does not pop off. This hammer also came in handy getting the mufflers onto the "X" pipe all the way.
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To finish off the installation,... 
   
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To finish off the installation, SLP's sweet slash-cut tips are installed onto the end of the tail pipe. They can be adjusted individually a good amount depending on how you want them to look from the back of the car. These clamps, along with all others on the system, must be tightened as much as they will go, or else the system will leak at each pipe junction. This is not SLP's fault; it is just the nature of the clamps.
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The finished SLP "Power-Flo"... 
   
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The finished SLP "Power-Flo" system looks so awesome, it is a shame it will be hidden underneath the car all of the time. The sound is substantially different from stock; expect a somewhat higher-pitched, sophisticated European tone. For even more noise and a deep bellowing grunt, go with the resonator-equipped "Loud Mouth" system, Part No. 31060, and save yourself $100. But be forewarned that the "Loud Mouth" is right at the borderline of attracting attention from the fuzz.
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LS1Speed's GTO High Flow Induction,... 
   
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LS1Speed's GTO High Flow Induction, Part No. IZM104, retails for $179.99. There are very few parts involved in the system, the main ones being a conical cotton-and-gauze filter and a 4-inch polypropylene tube.
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As the first step in the installation,... 
   
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As the first step in the installation, the stock tube leading from the throttle body to the mass air flow sensor is removed. Though not significantly smaller in diameter than the LS1Speed tube, this thing actually has a metal rib in it just before the bend to the throttle body. This rib protrudes into the path of incoming air significantly and surely costs a few ponies.
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Before yanking out the stock... 
   
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Before yanking out the stock airbox, we were sure to remove the factory wiring clip from the side of the unit. This was not a quick-disconnect by any means and just had to be delicately pulled and twisted until it came out. Oh well, at least Holden didn't just put it in there with zip ties.
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In order to get the stock... 
   
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In order to get the stock airbox assembly out, one must first pull the coolant reservoir tank off of its mounts and then do the same for the airbox. GM uses some really neat, vibration-dampening rubber mounts for these that just pop in and out, which have heretofore been unseen. It makes the job that much faster and negates the possibility of screw stripping.
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We just yanked the stock air... 
   
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We just yanked the stock air baffle out of place from behind the headlight, but it makes it easier if you lift this end of the upper radiator shroud (just a few plastic pop rivets must be taken out)--there is much less risk of messing up your factory weatherstripping if you do it that way. This baffle sealed the factory box away from warm underhood air, yet lead only to a dead corner of the fenderwell with no real air passages leading to it. A design oversight, in our book.
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With the airbox out, the mass... 
   
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With the airbox out, the mass air and stock rubber coupler are pulled off of the box for reuse on the LS1Speed kit, albeit flipped around to the other side of the meter.
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LS1Speed supplies a cool,... 
   
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LS1Speed supplies a cool, washable 9-inch conical filter. It goes directly onto the end of the mass air flow sensor. 85mm MAFs require a silicone coupler andl larger filter.
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We found that no matter how... 
   
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We found that no matter how we twisted and turned the mass air flow sensor and swiveled the transmission cooler line, the black electronics box on the mass air flow sensor would contact this line. For this reason, we opted to wrap the line in some rubber hose to prevent damage to the meter from heat and vibration.
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With the intake system already... 
   
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With the intake system already fully assembled, it goes onto the throttle body as one piece. We recommend tightening the silicone hose adapter onto the throttle body first, then inserting the induction tube. You need to really push on the induction tube and make sure the small lip on the very end of the tube gets past the hose clamp (but not so far that it is hung up within the throttle body), or the tube risks popping out of the rubber coupler. If this happens while driving, the engine will start sucking unfiltered air and it will throw the check engine light.
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In the final adjustment, some... 
   
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In the final adjustment, some rather tough twisting of the mass air flow sensor will be needed to angle its plug away from the power steering pulley and to get it to contact the trans cooler line in just the right way. Here you see the interference between the trans line and the mass air. This may be a blessing in disguise, though, as it seems to help hold the system from falling. On manual cars, this line is not there, and the end of the air filter just rests on the fenderwell to prevent the whole system from moving.
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The final installation of... 
   
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The final installation of the LS1Speed intake system definitely looks cool, and we think it would be even cooler (both literally and figuratively) with a cold air enclosure box. This is particularly important because of the way the GTO's computer pulls out timing when it sees warm air at the intake air temperature sensor, though custom tuning can compensate for this.
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With the install completed,... 
   
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With the install completed, it was back to SLP Performance Parts headquarters for a few more dyno pulls and some PCM tuning.
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SLP's Hank Daniecki delves... 
   
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SLP's Hank Daniecki delves into the GTO's stock computer program and works some magic with both the engine and transmission. His efforts really transformed the car in ways that no other mod is ever likely to. SLP's tool of choice is LS1Edit, and it is continually updated to provide access to the latest computer functions that GM comes up with. For example, the intake air temperature-timing compensation table only came into existence very recently on production cars.
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From a 290.4/297.6 baseline,... 
   
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From a 290.4/297.6 baseline, the SLP exhaust brought the dyno numbers up 6.3 ponies to 296.7 horses and 297.5 lb.-ft. The 0.1 lb.-ft. peak loss is deceptive because the car gained as much as 5 lb.-ft. or more in the upper rpm range. LS1Speed's intake gave an additional 7.6 ponies and 3.3 lb.-ft., with 304.3 horses and 300.8 lb.-ft. resulting. SLP's tuning yielded what can only be called an awesome increase in power and torque throughout all rpm ranges, adding 23 horses and 26.8 lb.-ft., for a grand total of 327.3 horses and 327.6 lb.-ft. showing at the rollers.
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The Drag Pak gave the GTO... 
   
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The Drag Pak gave the GTO an extra 36.9 horses and 30 foot-pounds at the wheels, and a trip to the track on a 75-degree day rewarded us with a 13.20 ET at 104.9 mph on a 1.97 60-ft. time, an improvement of over 6 tenths and 4 mph!
SLP Performance Parts LS1 Speed Inc.
803C Albion
Schaumburg
IL  60193
Nitto Tire North America

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