It's not your good 'ol small-block, so pay attention. Setting up a new bump stick in Gen III and IV engines requires the same base tools we're familiar with and a few new tools too. We've all read the overly familiar cam degreeing stories, but they all use the same SBC photos that have been floating around for years. GMHTP readers require and deserve a modern story.
Comp Cams sells a few different style degreeing kits, varying to suit each need and budget. For the pros, engine shops, and guys who seek bragging rights, look no further than Comp's Pro Degree Wheel kit. Each component is available a la Carte as well. If your budget is tighter than a writer's, Comp's Sportsman setup is for you--we'll cover that later. If you're prepared to degree a cam, you'll need a quality timing set too. SLP's latest double row adjustable timing set, PN 55000, is perfect for any performance build. You can still find offset bushings and low-cost timing chains if you're building a real budget engine. | 
Cleanliness is the key to any internal engine work. Even brand new parts must be washed and cleaned. This is the right time to visually inspect your parts and confirm you received what you ordered. Once your engine is prepped and the parts are cleaned, the cam lobes and journals must be liberally coated with an ultra slick and ultra sticky lube. We use Permatex Ultra Slick, available at any auto supply shop. Pop for the good stuff as plain engine oil won't cut it. Cover all the lobes except the number one cylinder intake--this lobe gets coated after the degreeing is finished. The lube is cheap insurance, and can't hurt anything, so load up. | 
Guiding the cam into the block is a little easier said than done. An extension tool is recommended to provide an adequate handling point. If you're only doing one cam install, you can get by using some longer bolts screwed into the snout of the cam. Installation requires precision, so be careful not to nick any cam bearings or cock the cam sideways during the install. Be patient. |
On Gen III and IV engines, the cam is held in place with a four-bolt plate. Make sure the integral gasket is clean and intact prior to installing. | 
SLP's double row adjustable timing chain and sprocket set includes everything shown. The aluminum spacers provide clearance for a factory oil pump. SLP also sells a performance oil pump that does not require the spacers, PN 55001. SLP's crank sprocket and oil pump drive cog are two separate parts, making for an easier install. A precision needle bearing is provided for the backside of the cam sprocket. | 
The cam timing is adjusted by phasing the crank's sprocket on different crank keyways. Each keyway is marked in degrees of cam advance or retard. Options on the sprocket include -6, -4, -2, 0, +2, +4, +6. The sprocket is installed with the keyway matching the label of the desired advance or retard (advance is positive, retard is negative). Once installed, the cam sprocket alignment dot must be aligned with the corresponding sprocket tooth. Do not attempt to line up the keyway with the cam sprocket. In the photo, a pointer is marking the 0 keyway, and the finger is touching the correspondingly marked 0 sprocket tooth. |
Here's the proper position of the crank sprocket relative to the cam sprocket, for 0 degrees of advance. Camshafts are typically advanced for increased low-end torque and retarded for higher horsepower. Without the luxury of dynamic cam phasers on Gen III and IV (yet), you'll need to pick one over the other! Adjustable timing changes do allow for future adjustments, however. | 
Alignment of the cam sprocket dot and the selected sprocket tooth is critical. A small straightedge can be used to check alignment. Double check alignment before moving on. | 
A degree wheel effectively creates a physical crankshaft position meter. The resolution of the meter is proportional to the diameter of the wheel. Larger diameter wheels offer higher resolution. Comp's pro wheel is an attractive part made from anodized aluminum and sports CNC'd labels. This baby will last a lifetime. The wheel is attached using the supplied bushing and an old balance bolt. |
To use the Comp indicator base on the Gen III and IV engine, you will need a 5-inch long piece of 3/4-inch (outside diameter) tubing and an old head bolt. The tube is bolted to the block and is used to support the indicator base fixture jig. | 
The first step to degreeing the camshaft is to locate the crankshaft's exact position (referred to as crank or rotation angle) when the number 1 cylinder is at top dead center (TDC). There are many effective means to find TDC. The first step with the dial indicator is to align and square the indicator tip with the center of the piston. Next, the crank is rotated until the piston is at TDC, as best we can tell. When the indicator stops advancing you've hit TDC. Once you've found TDC, move the indicator dial so the maximum needle reading is set at zero. After setting the dial, turn the crank a few more times to double check your setting, and adjust as necessary. | 
Piston stops work fine for finding TDC as well. The slotted bar stop is available from Comp, but will require further slotting to fit the ultra-wide Gen III and IV head-bolt spacing. If you're degreeing with the heads on, the Comp spark plug piston stop is the way to go. We expand on this later. |