You'll need to rotate the crank by a means other than the degree wheel. The degree wheel should be for measuring, not turning. On the Gen III and IV this becomes a little tricky. We fabricated a turning wrench from an old oil pump sprocket cut in half and welded to a shaft. You can get by with a large strap wrench, like those sold at Sears. Comp Cams is working on a socket specific for these engines which will ultimately make life easier. | 
Once you've set the indicator dial to TDC, align the degree wheel "0" (0 = TDC) with the tip of the pointer and tighten the balancer bolt. To check our TDC setup, we first rotate the crank until the indicator reads 0.050-inch BTDC. Note the reading on the degree wheel, in our case +11.25 degrees, where BTDC is considered positive or advanced. Next we rotate around until the indicator reads 0.050-inch ATDC. Again, we note the reading on the degree wheel of -11.25 degrees, where ATDC is considered negative or retarded. We should note, the negative and positive nomenclature can be reversed, so long as BTDC and ADTC are decipherable to yourself. We like to match the nomenclature of the timing chain set. To find the center point between these two readings, we simply add them together.-11.25+11.25 = 0In our case, we're right on with the TDC marker. If you end up with anything other than zero, the wheel must be rotated relative to the crank. If our measurements came up -11.5 and 11.00, we'd end up with -0.5. The wheel would have to be adjusted to even the measurements to -11.25 and 11.25. | 
It is necessary to install a lifter on the intake lobe of the first cylinder. In the case of roller lifters, they must remain squarely positioned on the cam so the roller remains parallel with the camshaft. Gen III and IV engines use plastic alignment modules as shown. These are too tight to be used during degreeing because they hold the lifter up off the cam when no spring pressure is applied (this is what allows cams to be swapped with heads on). The lifter should be installed and aligned so the roller is parallel to the cam. |
The indicator jig must be aligned so the measurement tip centers in the lifter pushrod bowl. Once aligned, tighten all the set screws on the indicator jig. | 
The indicator is adjusted in the same manner it was for TDC. The engine is rotated while watching the indicator until it reaches a maximum reading corresponding with peak lift. The indicator dial is set to zero at this point. It is good practice to double check the reading a few times to make sure the lifter is moving freely and the alignment of the indicator is true. | 
Measuring the intake centerline is similar to the procedure used to find TDC. First rotate the crank until the indicator reads 0.050-inch before peak lift. Note the reading on the degree wheel, in our case 66 degrees (at this point, negative and positive don't apply, keep it simple with positive. Other degree wheels may require using negative and positive). Next we rotate around until the indicator reads 0.050-inch after peak lift. Again, we note the reading on the degree wheel of 162 degrees. To find the center point between these two readings, we simply add them together and divide by 2.66+162 = 228228 divided by 2 = 114The intake lobe centerline is set at 114 degrees. This number matches our cam data card packaged with the cam. The cam is degree'd as ground and as specified, and installed with no advance or retard. It is possible for a cam to degree somewhat different than specified, especially in the case of a custom-ground cam. When necessary, the timing set can be adjusted to correct the cam position. |
Degreeing a camshaft when the engine is still in a car or with the cylinder heads installed is generally more time consuming and more difficult. Comp's Sportsman Degree kit, PN 4796, is perfect for in-car or head-on degreeing. | 
Locating TDC with the cylinder head on requires a spark plug type piston stop. For Gen III and IV engines (or most any 14mm spark plug head), Comp's PN 4795 unit works fine. | 
The piston stop screws in the spark plug hole and the center of the stop is screwed further down into the combustion chamber to provide a stop for the piston. Remember the stop is only for touching the piston, not poking holes in it! Disconnect the battery before even thinking about using these. If the engine is rotated via the starter, you'll either rip threads out of the head or poke a hole in the piston. |
The smaller diameter degree wheel pays dividends when used in the car. The larger wheel simply won't fit. | 
Since the Gen III and IV engines use a metric threaded valve cover bolt, you'll need to make a custom fixture mounting stud. A piece of 5/8-inch tubing, some washers and an extra long metric bolt will do the trick if you can't fabricate something. | 
The head-on cam fixture mounts using a valve cover bolt hole in the head--pretty slick. It is possible to align the indicator with the lifter, as shown, but it is very difficult to see the contact point between the two. |
The alternative to setting the indicator on the lifter is setting the tip on the valve retainer. First, it is necessary to swap in some light checking springs, so the lifters don't collapse when the engine is rotated. Comp's PN 4758-2 springs do the job.Degreeing is completed the same way as described out of the car with the heads off. A little more patience is required when doing it in the car. Remember to double check all measurements, mistakes are easy to make. And lube up that number one intake lobe now! | | |