Remove the water-pump drive gear using GM tools J 39243 and J 39092; replace the water-pump drive seal, distributor drive seal, and crankshaft seal in the front engine cover (J 39088, J 39090, J 35468). | 
In goes Comp Cams' #3206 timing kit, complete with cam and crankshaft gears and a new water-pump drive gear. Replace the crankshaft gear with tool J 5590. Bolt the cam gear to the cam, aligning the two marked gear teeth to each other. Put some Loctite on the threads, then torque the bolts to 21 lb-ft. | 
Install the front cover assembly using tool J 39089 on the water-pump driveshaft assembly so as not to mangle the easily damaged seal. Lift the oil pan assembly with gasket, use a small amount of gasket seal, then retighten the oil pan bolts. |
Even after 120k miles, the original Optispark was still working--but it was time to upgrade so we chose the billet Gen I DynaSpark. Dynotech's extensive instructions had us aligning the small, flat keyway on the DynaSpark with the timing sprocket. Bolt it on by torquing to 8 lb-ft. The gray plastic female harness connector from the original Optispark harness transfers onto the integral wiring harness that is attached to the Dynaspark. | 
With the #1 cylinder at TDC, reinstall the crank hub, washer, and bolt, then use the 5/8-inch wrench to torque to 75 lb-ft. Next, verify that the balancer arrow is pointing straight up at TDC, reinstall it with the three bolts, and torque it to 60 lb-ft. | 
Install a new water pump by carefully lining up the splined shaft (with the coupling and two seals) to the engine-side driveshaft. Line up the two new gaskets before torquing the bolts to 31 lb-ft. Reattach the hoses and reconnect the cool-ant sensor clip. A 160-degree thermostat is installed. |
Time for some valvetrain goodies--pull both valve covers and remove the stock rocker arms and pushrods. | 
Remove old valvesprings and valve stem seals using compressed air in each spark-plug hole (tool J 22794 and valvespring compressor J 5892-C). | 
Install Comp's #983-KIT ovate wire spring kit with new valve stem seals--be sure the keys seat in the upper groove of the valve stem. |
Install the pushrods and 1.6 roller rockers (0 lash plus 1/2 turn clockwise). | 
Once the valve covers are back on, the entire exhaust system from the manifolds back is removed. Remove starter and the alternator to have room to install the headers. | 
Kooks' new 1.75-inch-long tubes will go in without unbolting the motor mounts, but we did anyway, and raised the engine a touch for more room. The headers were bolted into place, the motor-mount bolts, starter, and alternator were reinstalled, and the O2 sensors (with extensions) were screwed in. |
Next, Kook's 3-inch off-road Y-pipe (PN 6402, $245) slips on. | 
The Borla Cat-Back exhaust, made of T-304 stainless steel, installs easily, and fits well, but we hit a snag: in our quest for all-out power, we requested non-emissions headers from Kooks after requesting Borla's emissions-legal exhaust system, which is designed as a direct bolt-up to a catalytic converter. Overlooking these details means we have to modify the nice new Borla Cat-Back exhaust so the headers and exhaust will work together. Although this car sees off-road duty in the Midwest, we should have ordered the emissions-legal headers from Kooks. | 
A new MSD Blaster coil replaces the factory coil, and the black MSD spark-plug wires and new Delco plugs are installed next. |
Before the stock '94 PCM was swapped for the custom-tuned Pcmforless unit, we installed a new LT4 knock module in the PCM to desensitize the knock sensor and to avoid pulled timing at WOT from our aftermarket valvetrain. | 
A new LT1 knock sensor was installed--there's still coolant in the block when you remove it, so watch out. | 
Finally, the electric fans and all loose sensor connections and hoses were reconnected, then the serpentine belt and its tensioner were reinstalled. New coolant is added, and the bubbles are bled from the system via bleed valves in the heater hose assembly. |
Tips And Tricks
In 11 years, this F-body has been treated to high-speed highway runs, big-city traffic, temperature extremes, and nothing but the best fluids and components.But after 119K, we felt it was high-time to replace some of the LT1's integral parts. The original timing chain was stretched out, so a high-quality Comp single roller was installed to avoid problems in the future. The original valvesprings had gotten lazy; Comp's 983 springs, 751 retainers, and 613 locks added top-end rpm. Comp also provided stock-length hardened pushrods and 1.6-ratio roller tip rocker arms. The rockers increased stock-cam lift from 0.448/0.459-inch with the 1.5 OEM rockers to 0.478/0.489-inch, and increased power in the process.
Ignition is always a touchy subject when LT1s are concerned. But in the aftermarket, what was once a drought is now a flood, with several large and small companies marketing refined Optis or coil conversions. With reliability in mind for this mildly modded and stock rev-range Camaro, the billet aluminum Dynaspark was our choice. This LT1 distributor shames the OEM unit with its high-quality components and blueprinted assembly process. It's rebuildable too--great when GM Opti prices are out of sight. We immediately noticed a smoother idle.
To avoid ignition problems down the road we replaced the stock wires and coil with an MSD Blaster coil and some new black Super Conductor wires. The black wires make for a stealthy look in a stock engine bay.
Exhaust upgrades can be dicey. You want the extra power but pray that larger aftermarket tubes will somehow mirror the factory system's turns--because if it doesn't, it's rattle city. We'd been watching Kooks' foray into the LT1 for quite some time, so when its 1.75-inch LT1 long tubes became available, we jumped on them. LT1 F-bodies have plug access and ground clearance problems with long tubes, but the Kooks pipes offer good plug access and very good ground clearance. Throw in the high-quality stainless construction and huge power gains over stock manifolds, and the Kooks headers/Y-pipe combo is tough to beat.
Complementing these high-zoot headers is Borla's stainless, 3-inch single-cat exhaust system. The Borla sound is just as unique as the Cat-Back's adjustments, with block-off plates ranging from "near stock" to "arrest me" to suit its owner's taste. And to top off this quality system, the "26" intercooled tips are the coolest.
It takes a dead-on PCM calibration to turn this pile of parts into a cohesive unit. Pcmforless has built a solid reputation for delivering a great mail-order tune to its customers, so we contacted Bryan Herter with our list of upgrades. We filled out Pcm's extensive order sheet and requested a transmission shift slightly firmer than stock. A few days later, a recalibrated PCM was in our hands, so we sent ours back as a core, installed the LT4 knock module, and bolted it in. During wide-band dyno and street testing it's evident that Herter changed what was necessary and left everything else alone. The Camaro still idles and transitions like a stock car--albeit quicker with the new go-fast goodies. The slop is gone from the auto trans, but it's not harsh. Our Z28's knock retard and high air/fuel ratios come from the wasted stock fuel pump, not this tune. For only 99 bucks you get a dead-on tune and a free recalibration within 60 days--for anyone who's new to programming chips/PCMs, it's a smokin' deal.
LT1 Parts Used And Why
Scoggin Dickey Parts Center was happy to donate a new LT1 water pump, an LT1 knock sensor, and an LT4 knock module--just be sure to verify the correct F-body part numbers before ordering. A Corvette water pump and the wrong knock sensor were mistakenly ordered. The correct GM part numbers are 12527741 for the pump, 10456126 for the knock sensor, and 16214681 for the LT4 knock module. This water pump won't work, and the knock sensor will trip the SES light and knock like crazy. Only the LT4 knock module is correct in this photo. | 
Take a look at your crank balancer. Many LT1s balancers aren't weighted, but this one is. If it's reinstalled incorrectly it can cause a rough-running engine, and if left like this, can eventually cause damage. Always reinstall exactly how it came off. | 
Bryan Herter of Pcmforless has seen many high-mile LT1s with high A/F ratios on the dyno. In many cases, the MAF element is dirty, which will lean out the mixture. He suggests buying some spray electronics contact cleaner, removing the MAF, and spraying into it. Clean those internal wires, and your MAF will read properly. |
A large 3-pronged puller unlike this one is preferred for removing the balancer and hub. When pulling the balancer, be sure the prongs are holding the back of the balancer, not the hub, and you can use a 5/8-inch socket on the crank bolt to center the puller. The expensive GM puller/installer is the J 39046, but you can get a cheaper unit at your local parts store. These tools are prone to breaking when reinstalling the interference-fit hub; try a chunk of aluminum and a hammer to softly tap the hub back on. | 
We were so psyched to be installing Kooks' brand-new stainless LT1 headers that we forgot to order up some O2 extensions. Remember that you'll need those for long tubes. And while we're on the subject of parts, new O2 sensors and a new fuel filter are always a good idea. | |