The transmission jack now gets its chance to live up to its name; put some tension on it and be sure to use the safety chain so that $2,000 worth of Tremec doesn't accidentally come down on your foot, Labrador Retriever, or-heaven forbid-garage cat. The transmission crossmember can now be safely removed. (Note: while this author currently has no garage cat, he does have a "garage grandpa" in that dearly departed Fred now resides on a shelf next to a model Corvette. If the author's mother actually reads his articles as she claims to, her husband is now in some seriously deep $@#&.) | 
With a little bit of mojo, the transmission will begin to slide away from the flywheel housing. As this happens, it is critical that the clutch slave cylinder be removed from the front of the transmission. There simply isn't enough slack in the hydraulic clutch line for it to move very far, so a wrench must be slipped between the tranny and housing and the two bolts holding the slave cylinder removed. | 
As the transmission is moved backward, the shape of the transmission tunnel necessitates that the rear of the transmission be simultaneously lowered. At this point, a massive amount of transmission fluid will begin rushing out of the rear of the tranny and pouring all over your father, friend, or-God willing-garage cat. One can avoid such a catastrophe by draining the transmission's fluid prior to its removal. |
With the transmission moved far enough from the flywheel housing, the tip of the transmission input shaft will finally emerge from the flywheel housing and the slave cylinder can be slipped between the two and out of the way. | 
At this point in the installation, a brooding horror fell over the shop as we inspected the clutch slave cylinder and found it stamped with a "0." This meant that our vehicle had been equipped from the factory with the inferior 2000-earlier model clutch hydraulic system. A trip to the nearest GM dealership was near at hand. Slave cylinders stamped with a "1," "2," or greater are OK but it's always a good idea to replace them anyway while the system is in pieces (they're a wear item). | 
With the transmission finally out of the way, the goal is in sight, as the clutch is finally visible. The discerning reader will also notice that every single bracket had to be removed from the rear of the transmission in order to coax it to come out, as clearance between the rear of the transmission and the Y-pipe was an issue during removal. |
There are a total of eight flywheel-housing-to-engine bolts, but even when they're removed, the flywheel housing will hold its ground. The trick to dislodging it is to pry at its very bottom with a flathead screwdriver as well as in this secret pry spot up on the passenger side of the housing adjacent to the catalytic converter. If you don't pry at this spot, we promise you, the housing will NOT come off. (If that sounds like a wager to you, it is.) |  | 
Santa Claus happened to be chillin' at the Werner residence at the time of this install, so he was kind enough to pose for this photo of removing the flywheel housing. Immediately after this photo was taken, we discovered that Prancer had left us an early Christmas present in the yard and that the family black Labrador was eating it. Cleanup ensued. |