The clutch pressure plate is then popped atop the clutch disc and the new SPEC-supplied bolts installed. It's worth mentioning at this point just how this type of clutch works: when the clutch pedal is depressed, the slave cylinder pushes the throwout bearing against the "fingers" seen here, lifting the pressure plate off of the clutch disc and allowing the transmission input shaft to turn independently of the engine. It's what is known as a "push-style" clutch. | 
Torquing the clutch pressure plate bolts requires the above-mentioned criss-cross pattern and three passes of 20 lb-ft, 40 lb-ft, and 52 lb-ft respectively. Remember the threadlocker here too. Since the engine will want to turn over as the bolts are torqued, a flathead screwdriver or similar instrument must be used to hold the flywheel. Make sure it rests against a suitably thick part of the engine block. (If your hobbies include wasting money, there is such a thing as a GM flywheel holding tool.) | 
As stated earlier, we needed new GM clutch master and slave cylinders, and here they are. The master is GM PN 12570277 and the slave is PN 15046288 (new throwout bearing included); the grand total for everything came out to just over $300 for us. Amazingly, they both come pre-filled with fluid so that the quick connection can just be popped together and the system should be ready to go. |
To get the stock master cylinder out, a bit of crawling beneath the dash is required. Two nuts affix a U-clamp which holds the master cylinder against the firewall. Beyond this, all that must be disconnected under here is a clip at the end of the shaft leading to the top of the clutch pedal. | 
At first, we couldn't understand why the U-clamp didn't want to come out, but then we realized GM had installed one of these grab-and-hold washer thingies, for lack of a better term. The only way to get it off is to slowly turn it counterclockwise with a flathead screwdriver. Interestingly, only the one leg of the U-clamp had one. | 
The new master cylinder comes with a reservoir attached, so the stocker must go; just pry it out of its bracket. The plastic pop-rivet will be reused. Underneath the cap of the reservoir, one can find the same type of stamping as on the slave, indicating the master is of the inferior "00" and earlier pedigree, which can't pump as much fluid as the revised version. |
As the braided line leading from the master cylinder down toward the slave cylinder is sandwiched between the car's body and this heat shield, it needs to be removed before one can get the master cylinder to come out. Make sure to route the new line in this same fashion. | 
We'd love to show you the new master cylinder and its U-clamp being installed on the firewall, but like so many other areas on the Fourth-Gen F-body, their lair is physically impossible to photograph. You'll have to work blindly by sticking your hand under the brake booster; an assistant inside the car can look through the holes under the dash and tell you when you've got the U-clamp lined up. | 
To get the flywheel housing back on, a good amount of bashing with a rubber mallet is going to be needed. The reason is that there are a couple of protruding alignment knubs that stick from the engine block into orifices in the flywheel housing, and the suckers are a tight fit. Just lube 'em up a bit, hammer away, and you'll be through before you know it. |