 Since the four-wheel disc...  Since the four-wheel disc setup had become atrociously bad from sitting for so long, we decided to upgrade while we replaced the brake components on our beloved Third-Gen project car. Here is the Quick Change Caliper kit and slotted rotors we received from Stainless Steel Brakes. Retail for the caliper kit (PN A181) is $395, while the front rotors (PN S2346P) go for $125 apiece for the front. Rear rotors were special order so check with SSBC. |
 We began installation with...  We began installation with the removal of the old components. We soaked pretty much everything with PB Blaster penetrating oil for a few days straight as everything had rusted up, thanks to our salty northern winters. A propane torch came in handy for one of the caliper bolts, which we are removing in this picture. There are two per side. |
 With both bolts removed, the...  With both bolts removed, the front calipers come right off. |
 Brake pad material was pretty...  Brake pad material was pretty much non-existent on all of our pads. Driving the Bird home 70 miles in this condition may be grounds for a psychological evaluation. |
 Next up are the stock rubber...  Next up are the stock rubber brake lines. We'll be replacing these with some braided stainless steel pieces from Classic Tube. Blue Thunder with its four-wheel discs required PN SBH6017, which is a five-piece kit that retails for $199. |
The majority of Third-Gen F-bodies that rolled off the assembly line featured a front disc, rear drum brake system that was deemed adequate for the average Firebird/Camaro buyer who didn't care what was under the hood or how fast they could get from stoplight to stoplight.
The high-performance models, however, received four-wheel disc setups to cope with the extra horsepower from the H.O. and TPI engines. While a four-wheel disc brake system is the better of the two, there are some things you can do to improve upon it further.
Our resident Third-Gen project car Blue Thunder was in dire need of a brake overhaul, but we felt an upgrade was in order, as both the engine and suspension have moved further up in their respective performance realms.
That being the case, we looked for an inexpensive way to accomplish this and found a solution with Stainless Steel Brakes Corp. (SSBC) of Clarence, New York. This solution included upgrading the stock front brakes from steel single-piston calipers to aluminum two-piston pieces with SSBC's Quick Change Caliper kit.The kit comes with a pair of SSBC's SportTwin two-piston aluminum calipers, hardware and a set of high-performance brake pads. Calipers can be ordered in several powder-coated colors, and clear anodized or polished finishes are also available. The SSBC kit is a simple remove and replace job, hence the Quick Change name.
In addition to the new calipers, SSBC provided us with high-performance stock-sized front rotors. To make them work better and last longer, SSBC Turbo slots the surfaces, and the entire rotor gets the Xtra Life Zinc plating to keep it looking new.
For the rear disc brakes, we rebuilt the PBR calipers and installed the SSBC high-performance brake pads. SSBC also special ordered a set of Turbo slotted and Xtra Life plated rotors for the rear, as they do not stock them.To complement the Stainless Steel brake upgrade, we ordered a set of braided-steel hoses from Classic Tube in Lancaster, New York. Brake pedal feel and modulation are greatly increased when you add these and with hard turning and braking in our car's near future, we didn't want to rely on the factory rubber hoses.The Classic Tube kit we ordered is a five-piece kit that includes two for the front, two for the rear and a jumper line that carries fluid from the chassis hard line to the rear axle.
Installation of the new parts was a snap, once we were able to free up all of the rusty stock parts. Too many northeastern winters had taken their toll on the underside of the car, and lots of penetrating oil and even a propane torch were used to free up some of the bolts. We ended up installing new rear hard lines on the axle as the fittings had fused to the lines. We also installed new emergency brake cables and rebuilt the rear calipers. Both of these were locked up, thus preventing the rear brakes from working at all.
The cables and lines were easily sourced from our local auto parts chain store, though the metric bubble flare brake lines can be a bit elusive. You may find that it is necessary to bend the front brake line brackets a tad so that the lines do not come in contact with the wheels. This was a problem for us as Blue Thunder wears 17x9-inch Firehawk wheels, but stock wheel fitments may not encounter such an issue.
Though we weren't able to subject the brake upgrade to our test equipment, we were able to make several stops from 60mph without experiencing any noticeable brake fade. The high-performance pads offered a bite similar to stock, but without the fade once they were heated up. Brake dust was also minimal as well despite our testing abuse. So if your Third-Gen's binders have seen better days, you may want to consider the Stainless Steel Brakes Quick Change Caliper kit for a little more bite from your F-body.
 Once you have wrestled the...  Once you have wrestled the rubber line from the hard line, remove this clip from the strut. |  Remove the caliper and file...  Remove the caliper and file it in the nearest round receptacle. |  Next we have to remove the...  Next we have to remove the front rotor. Take off the dust cover and remove the cotter pin. |
 Remove the nut, washer, and...  Remove the nut, washer, and both front and rear bearings. |  Now would be a good time to...  Now would be a good time to replace all of the wheel bearings and seals if you haven't done it in a while. Install the bearing and seal in the backside of the new rotors. Be sure you install the right rotor on the right side of the car, as the slots are directional. |  Slide the rotor on and install...  Slide the rotor on and install the bearing, washer, and nut. Tighten the nut snug, but make sure the rotor rotates smoothly. Then install a new Cotter pin and the dust cover. |
 Here you can see the difference...  Here you can see the difference between the dual 38mm piston Stainless Steel caliper and the single piston factory piece. What you can't see is the difference in weight as the aluminum SS caliper weighs about half as much. Removing unsprung weight such as this allows the suspension to be more responsive. |  The brake pads have a thin...  The brake pads have a thin shim on the back that you must remove... |  ...Install the provided clips...  ...Install the provided clips on the back of the pads. |
 With The Caliper loades, use...  With The Caliper loades, use the new provided bolts to mount the caliper. |  The new braided brake lines...  The new braided brake lines from Classic Tube will give better pedal feedback and allow for better modulation. The new lines install in reverse of the stock removal. |  The lines come with new clips...  The lines come with new clips to secure the lines to the chassis. Once everything is put together and the wheel is on, you may need to tweak the bracket so that the lines do not rub against the wheels. |