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My First Stroker Part 3 - LS1 Engine Build

Ls1 Engine Build Rockers
We chose to go along with... 
   
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Ls1 Engine Build Rockers
We chose to go along with the firing order of the LS1 engine (1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3) but you can go in whatever order you'd like; just don't confuse which rockers have already been bolted on and adjusted! For cylinders where you can't see the lifters (3, 5, 4, 6) it's hard to know when they're on the cam's base circle, so you'll need to spin the engine and watch the pushrods and/or rockers move (noting again that pushrods without rockers won't go down without pressure on them due to the GM lifter trays holding the lifters up).
Ls1 Engine Build Rockers
Watch for any minor interference... 
   
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Ls1 Engine Build Rockers
Watch for any minor interference issues as you go through the process of installing and adjusting the rockers. When bolting on the rocker assembly for cylinder seven (driver's side rear), we found the exhaust rocker was in close proximity to the head's valve cover rail. The area was meticulously masked off and lightly ground with a die grinder, with care being taken not to go so far as to potentially affect the sealing of the valve cover gasket. With the rocker assembly reinstalled, the engine is spun over to make sure no interference exists at any point in the rocker's range of motion. Success!
Ls1 Engine Build Rockers
The remainder of the rocker... 
   
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Ls1 Engine Build Rockers
The remainder of the rocker assemblies were bolted on and adjusted without problem, and the installed Jesel J2K Shaft Rocker System looks just as good here as it does under the hood of the C6R. You'll note in this final photo that we've masked off all the intake and exhaust ports; with the valves now operational, we don't want anything accidentally falling into a port and finding its way inside a cylinder-necessitating head removal (both of the cylinder, and perhaps that of the clumsy perpetrator)!
Ls1 Engine Build Knock Sensor Grommet
The valley cover includes... 
   
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Ls1 Engine Build Knock Sensor Grommet
The valley cover includes provisions for the LS1's two knock sensors to be isolated from the oily engine interior. GM recommends that new knock sensor grommets be installed in the valley cover ($3.41 for a set of 5, PN 12558177), which we do here after knocking the old ones out with a socket and hammer. They're lightly lubed with oil before installation.
Ls1 Engine Build Valve Covers
Here's a look at the LS1's... 
   
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Ls1 Engine Build Valve Covers
Here's a look at the LS1's driver side (bottom) and passenger side (top) valve covers. One can see the PCV baffling located on the underside of each, which in our case prevented them from being reinstalled as-is. A good bit of material removal, trial-fitting, followed by more material removal will be required until the valve covers will fit. We've got our fingers crossed!
Ls1 Engine Build Valve Cover
The underside of the driver... 
   
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Ls1 Engine Build Valve Cover
The underside of the driver side valve cover has a stamped metal baffling piece running along its top edge, which the adjusters of our rocker arms bashed right into. It comes off by a light grind of the aluminum tabs holding it down, followed by simply yanking it out.
Ls1 Engine Build Valve Cover
Many of the cast-in aluminum... 
   
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Ls1 Engine Build Valve Cover
Many of the cast-in aluminum tabs that held the metal baffling to the underside of the driver side cover will need to be ground away, and most significantly, the far rear rocker (number seven exhaust) interferes heavily since the cover sits lower here in the vicinity of the PCV system grommet. Significant grinding had to be done, but we were very cautious not to go too far and break through to the outside, rendering our valve cover useless (save for a possible JB Weld fix).
Ls1 Engine Build Valve Cover
As to the passenger side valve... 
   
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Ls1 Engine Build Valve Cover
As to the passenger side valve cover, things aren't as bad; in fact, none of the aluminum underside of it actually hit the rocker arms. Rather, the black plastic baffling-and aluminum vanes holding them-jut very deep and hit the actual shafts of the rocker system. It's a simply matter of snapping off the plastic, then cutting and breaking out the aluminum vanes, as shown here.
Ls1 Engine Build Valve Cover
Once clearance is checked... 
   
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Ls1 Engine Build Valve Cover
Once clearance is checked and verified to be OK, the valve covers are thoroughly cleaned of all metal shavings and set atop the heads. Being sure to use a new GM valve cover gasket (PN 12560696), torque the stock valve cover bolts to 106 in-lb. Turn the crank over at least twice (one cam revolution) and make sure you don't hear any contact under the covers. If it sounds OK and there's no binding as you're trying to turn the crank, you should be good to go!
Ls1 Engine Build Valley Cover
We weren't able to get our... 
   
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Ls1 Engine Build Valley Cover
We weren't able to get our hands on a new GM valley cover gasket (PN 12558178) in time for our engine assembly, so we were forced to reuse the stock one. Like the oil pan and front/rear cover gaskets, it's a controlled compression aluminum carrier design like we described in our gasket sidebar last issue. After thorough cleaning of all surfaces, the valley cover is set in place and the bolts torqued to 18 lb-ft. Though ARP has bolt kits available for the valley cover (PN 434-8001, $36.04 for stainless hex-head bolts), we had to use our F.A.S.T.-supplied button-head cap screws which, with their flatter heads, give enough clearance for the thicker-than-stock F.A.S.T. intake to sit above.
Ls1 Engine Build Knock Sensor
By virtue of their location... 
   
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Ls1 Engine Build Knock Sensor
By virtue of their location in the valley area between the cylinder banks, the LS1's knock sensors are excellently positioned in the block to sense engine acoustics. They look the same as the knock sensors GM has been using since the TPI days, but are specially tuned for the acoustic signature produced by abnormal combustion in the LS1's aluminum-block engine. They are torqued to 15 lb-ft with a 7/8 deep socket. Don't overtighten these suckers, they're sensitive pieces of equipment! The piece of wiring harness that connects to these two sensors must also now be installed as the intake manifold is soon to go on atop them.

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