My method was to use some penetrating grease and curse like a drunken sailor. After tugging to no avail, each pulled off with the gentlest of motions. Go figure! There are two-piece plastic fasteners that secure the plastic cowl cover to the cowl, which can be removed with needle-nose pliers. | 
The 90-degree boot on the plug wire was filled with dielectric grease and snapped onto the plug wires.... | 
...With the coil brackets mocked up in their intended location, the wires were then cut to the appropriate length and a half-inch of insulation was stripped.... |
...In case you are wondering, the smudge on the wire strippers is blood-owning an LT1 can be painful (literally). Next, the exposed wire is folded over, and the metal terminal overlaps it and is bent using pliers to affix it to the covered section of the plug wire.... | 
...The fun part is lubing up the terminal and plug wire with Vaseline, and then inserting it into the boot.... | 
...I hope you don't have arthritis or carpal tunnel-I promise you will by the time you get the terminal all the way up to the boot's tip. |
Take a look at the finished product. Pretty impressive-it looks almost factory. Since the plug wires go straight up instead of taking the meandering path they did from the factory, burnt wires should no longer be an issue and they are so much easier to take on and off now. | 
Just as I started drilling into the cowl to mount the coil brackets (with an 1/8-inch drill bit),... | 
...I realized with the LT1 intake, hoses, and wires, there really wasn't enough space to mount the brackets under the cowl. |