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1994 Pontiac Trans Am

The two pink wires need to be soldered or mated with plastic connectors to the pink (power) wire that used to feed the coil. The yellow wire also needs to be spliced into the factory 12-volt (coil) power source for the module's 2-Step Trigger Input. If you don't plan to use this function, go ahead and leave this step out. The white wire from the LTCC module needs to be clipped to the white EST (spark signal) that previously went to the old coil via a four-prong plug. The directions are a bit confusing on this part, possibly due to differences on varying LT1 applications. An easy way to differentiate which wire is the power wire is that it sits by its lonesome connected to a plastic plug connected to the front of the coil. There is another plastic plug right next to this one, but is has two or three other wires feeding it. The proper way to tell would be to test the wire using a voltage meter-it should be 12 volts with the key on.
1994 Pontiac Trans Am - When LT1s Attack: Part II

The two pink wires need to be soldered or mated with plastic connectors to the pink (power) wire that used to feed the coil. The yellow wire also needs to be spliced into the factory 12-volt (coil) power source for the module's 2-Step Trigger Input. If you don't plan to use this function, go ahead and leave this step out. The white wire from the LTCC module needs to be clipped to the white EST (spark signal) that previously went to the old coil via a four-prong plug. The directions are a bit confusing on this part, possibly due to differences on varying LT1 applications. An easy way to differentiate which wire is the power wire is that it sits by its lonesome connected to a plastic plug connected to the front of the coil. There is another plastic plug right next to this one, but is has two or three other wires feeding it. The proper way to tell would be to test the wire using a voltage meter-it should be 12 volts with the key on.  View Related Article

 

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