Transmission Swap - Trans-ition

The new GM slave cylinder goes over it, and two new slave cylinder bolts are installed and torqued to 71 inch-pounds.

We raise the trans and mock-up the install--looks like the SFI bellhousing is interfering with the slave cylinder bleed screw. Using a grinder, I cut the bleed screw at the thin area in its center so that it fits when the trans is installed. This will make bleeding a problem, and I will deal with it later.

The trans is a real PITA to line up--it took nearly an hour with a trans jack, some screwdrivers...

...and two guys to get the input shaft and pilot bearing aligned. A word to the wise: Keep the safety chain on!

After much pushing and jiggling of the trans, Chris and I finally got it lined up and secured to the bellhousing with eight bolts. The very top bolt goes through a vent tube bracket before going into the bellhousing. (Note: the bellhousing to engine hardware store bolts can be seen in this photo--it was taken before McLeod's new bolts were sent.)

Next, the original auto trans mount is reused; it's attached with two 13mm bolts.

Now the torque arm bracket is installed. There's a long stud attached to a bracket at the rear that goes through the tailshaft, a long bolt at the front bottom that goes through the bracket and trans tailshaft, and a small bolt at the top which stays loose for now. A 15mm socket and wrench will get the job done.

The T56 crossmember goes on, starting with the center stud and nut (11mm), and then the four bolts (15mm) on the sides.

Time for the torque arm. The new bushing is placed on the arm and the arm is lifted up. The front sits in the bracket, and with the rear axle jacked up, the rear arm is hammered into place; we use a screwdriver to line up the two rear holes. A breaker bar and impact socket tighten the two rear bolts, and the front bracket bolt is tightened, too.

The driveshaft is slipped in, and the rear straps and four bolts are tightened.

I connect the master cylinder line to the slave cylinder. We're just about done...

As the previous owner had removed the stock front sway bar, I took this time to install a new stocker with Energy Suspension end links (9.8118G), and bushings (9.5171G), from F-Body Motorsports.

Moving into the cabin, Chris fills the T56 with four quarts of Dexron III.

Next up: shifter install. Pro 5.0 is known for wicked-strong billet shifters, and I was looking forward to using its T56 model for this swap; it is ringed with some RTV and installed with four included bolts. We set the stop bolts, and then tighten them down with 1/2-inch wrenches.

The lower console is reinstalled with its bolts. Note that the hard lower boot was unavailable in time for this install, so I'll put that in next time.

F-Body Motorsports was able to find an M6 upper console that matched my interior; it is installed and the shift knob is screwed on.

There are some wiring issues, which need to be resolved before the Z is roadworthy: the clutch switch, VSS, brake lights, and reverse lights (and hatch release if so equipped). First: ignore the reverse lockout (rear upper driver-side of T56) and skip shift (middle driver-side of T56) connections. Check out this pre-clutch pedal photo: The switch above the brake pedal with two connectors is for brake lights and cruise control--swap this from your brake setup and adjust it for the new pedal. The black clutch switch to the left of the clutch pedal prevents the car from starting unless the clutch pedal is depressed. Connect it to the green and purple/white striped wires to enable. For those of you with a power hatch release, connect the orange/black striped and black wires.

To activate the reverse lights, I bought a new pigtail and tapped into the brown and light green wires in the harness above the trans, then plugged the pigtail's brown connector into the backup light switch on the passenger side of the T56.

Cut the VSS wire and add about 6 inches for it to reach to the VSS (rear lower driver-side of T56).

All of the underdash panels are reinstalled and then it's time to update the PCM. The battery is reconnected...

...and a dead-stock factory tune for a 2001 6-speed F-body is loaded using EFI Live. We do a full re-flash of the system.

She starts up just fine, and we do a last check for leaking fluids, and other potential problems. A few trips around the block later and I've got myself a fully functional, 6-speed Z28. Later on the highway, 2,000 rpm equals 85 mph in 6th--that's what I'm talking about!

That's it! I put a few hundred break-in miles on the Z to get rid of the heavy clutch chatter, and there is only minor noise now taking off from a stop. I've had no problems with the clutch pedal or hydraulics, but I may either need to install adjustable hydraulics or adjust the shifter, as it hangs up just a touch between gears...

...The throttle response is wicked-fast with the light flywheel and pressure plate--and I can't wait to get this thing on the track!