Transmission Swap - Trans-ition

We first remove the trans cooler lines, and then the cooler mounted in front of the radiator.

Inside the cabin, I remove the clip holding the auto shifter handle on.

The handle comes off and then I pop off the upper console.

Next, I turn my attention to the lower console; I remove three 10mm bolts from the rear, two from the front...

...and unclip the aux output harnesses before the lower console can be removed.

Back underneath the Z, the hole that needs to be cut to accommodate the manual trans is 7.25 inches long, 6.5 inches wide. From the back of the engine block (measured from the top of the crank), the hole starts approximately 25 inches from it.

I cut out a hole with a Sawzall.

To ensure a high-quality installation, I picked up some ARP pressure-plate (134-2201; left), and flywheel (330-2802; right), bolt kits. If you need high-quality fasteners for your LS1, look no further.

Turning our attention to the clutch install, first install a new pilot bearing. The Spec aluminum flywheel is placed, and Loc-tite is applied to the six 11mm ARP flywheel bolts, which are then installed. The torquing sequence for these bolts is 15, 37, and finally 74 ft-lbs.

Next up is the clutch disc. Chris uses a bit of grease on the end of the clutch alignment tool...

...Then slips the disc over it. The disc is popped into the pilot bearing on the back of the crank.

Next up is the pressure plate.

It lines up with two dowel pins on the flywheel.

Once on, the six Allen bolts are torqued...

...to 20, 40, and 52 ft-lbs.

GM's replacement master cylinder (left), and slave cylinder (right), will be used on this project. Note that the master cylinder is the updated version, with part number 12570277. I picked up these goodies at Scoggin-Dickey, along with the slave cylinder-to-trans bolts, the clutch pedal retaining clip, and a few other odds and ends. Scoggin-Dickey is staffed by a bunch of hot-rodders, stocks pretty much anything you need for a GM ride, and offers great service.

The previous owner had tack-welded a plate over the original master cylinder hole, which was cut off and tossed away. We were lucky enough to be doing an M6 swap into an original M6 car (and had the master cylinder hole and bolt holes already in place). Since most of you'll be doing this swap into an original auto-trans car, you will need to measure and cut holes for the master cylinder and its bolts. The center of the master cylinder hole that needs to be cut is approximately 4.25 inches toward the outside of the car (from the center of the steering shaft). Height-wise, the top of the master cylinder hole is just about dead even with the top of the left-most steering shaft bolt. Drill a 1 5/8 to 1 3/4-inch hole here.

Next, the new master cylinder was angled between the strut tower and steering shaft, with the reservoir going under the brake booster and mounting by the hood shock bracket.

With Chris holding the master in the engine bay, he holds it flush with the firewall. We will be replacing the original U-bolt (a real pain to get aligned and tightened), with two M8x1.25x40 bolts with washers, lock washers, and nuts. To assist in drilling two mounting holes, you can create a cardboard or paper template based on the master cylinder's two mounting holes--this way all you have to do is place it on the inside against the firewall and drill the holes.

After mocking up the stock clutch pedal and verifying that the master cylinder rod is in the general area where it will connect to the brake pedal, Chris pushes the bolts (with washers) through the holes, and I place lock washers and nuts on them. They are tightened with a 13mm socket from the inside, while holding the bolt heads with a 13mm wrench in the engine bay.

Along with a stock clutch pedal, a master cylinder rod clip and two pedal pivot bushings will be needed to re-install the clutch pedal...

...The $38 pedal return spring isn't mandatory, but you can install it if you want.

The rod holding the brake pedal in place is removed with a crescent wrench on the one side, and a 17mm open-end wrench on the other (a ratchet-style works best here due to the tight location). Once the rod is out, the clutch pedal needs to get a white bushing on both sides before getting slipped into the bracket. Using a finger to find the clutch pedal hole, guide the rod through the clutch and brake pedals, and re-tighten the nut. The master cylinder rod goes onto the clutch pedal and is retained with the clip.

Because we'll be using McLeod's SFI bellhousing, the factory bolts are too long. McLeod sent standard bolts to me, so I ran down to the hardware store to pick up some temporary metric bolts approximately half an inch shorter to compensate...

...A day later, McLeod sent the correct metric, small-head Allen bolts and we installed them.

The T56Rebuilds.com T56, almost ready for installation.

This Spec-supplied spacer prevents a "crashed" clutch pedal; it is slipped onto the front of the trans.