 A mallet and chisel are used to push the pin out most of the way, but not too much to prevent the posi from rotating and pulling out the other side. The C-clips are removed with a magnet, and then a 5/8-inch socket is used on the carrier caps. It is important to note their orientations and locations, as they will need to be reinstalled in the same manner (left/right, up/down). The axles will slide right out since they are unclipped, while the ring and posi will require a little more elbow grease. A prybar helps. |  The old bearing races are hammered out before the housing can be sanded smooth to remove the roughness created in the removal process. The old races are saved, as they are useful in pressing the new races onto the new pinion. |  In the meantime, the axletubes are checked for debris before installing the bearings with a special chisel. Tech Nick Stevko says you can tell when they are both all the way on by sound and by looking at the rings inside the tubes. The seals are hammered with a mallet in alternating spots, as evenly as possible, until flush. Motor oil eases the process and prevents the seal from cracking during installation. |
 Once the Eaton posi is back from the machine shop, Nick gives the ring-and-pinion a squirt of Brakleen to clean off the Styrofoam and contaminants before assembly. The teeth are counted to make sure the correct ratio has been sent-and that the two match-before the new bearing and race can be pressed on with 5 to 8 tons of force. Though the pinion is smaller in width than the stocker, due to its ratio, it is actually .005 inch thicker, and will need to be shimmed accordingly. |  |  The new races are pressed into the carrier with an air hammer and race/bearing driver. Nick says placing the races in the freezer beforehand helps them go in a little easier. |
 The crush collar goes between the two bearings and is literally crushed when the yoke is inserted, hence the name. |  Remnants of the old thread sealant must be cleaned out of the pinion yoke before it is treated with copious amounts of GM pipe sealant and reinstalled. An impact gun is used at first on the U-joint, though those less experienced would be better off with a large wrench that can generate a lot of torque. The U-joint continues to have some play until it hits the crush collar, and then it is given a few taps with a mallet to free it from binding. The new nut requires a 32mm socket, and is crushed onto the last thread to lock it on, but Nick still prefers to use red Loctite. There should be 15 to 21 inch-lb of resistance when turning the nut before the Ujoint starts spinning for proper gear mesh. On the Formula, it turns out to be 18 inch-lb. |  The provided 7/16-inch bolts that connect the ring gear to the posi are treated to red Loctite, and torqued 65 lb-ft counterclockwise in an alternating pattern in order to get it flush. |