The serpentine belt comes off and the water pump is removed by pulling six 10mm bolts. Next, a three-jaw puller is used to remove the crank pulley. Ten 10mm bolts are pulled to yank the front cover. There are eight in the front, and two come up through the oil pan. | 
Eleven 10mm bolts free the oil pump. Three 10mm bolts are removed to take off the timing sprocket, and it and the old chain are removed. Four 10mm bolts for the cam retaining plate come off, as does the plate. | 
To slip the old cam out, the TTP crew works together to gently lift up and angle the condenser. The "correct" procedure is to disconnect the condenser and remove it completely; though TTP's method can result in a broken line, if you are gentle with it, you can get away scot-free and won't be recharging the A/C system to boot. Still, attempt at your own risk. |
The stock camshaft is slowly removed. | 
The Patriot cam is cleaned up and coated with assembly lube. Matt lifts up on the condenser again, and Jason slips the new cam in. This step requires a steady hand and patience as the stick is gently turned/pushed into place. | 
The cam retaining plate is slipped back on, and the four bolts are torqued to 18 lb-ft. |
The front cover is reinstalled temporarily, and the lifter valleys are plugged with shop towels, as the head-gasket mounting surfaces need to be cleaned with a craper and a 3M bristle disc; this will get the gasket off without hurting the aluminum. The head bolt holes are blown out with compressed air to get rid of any residual coolant, and they're threaded with a bolt to remove any sealant. These steps are critical, as coolant in a hole where you're trying to torque a bolt down can actually crack the block. | 
The new COMP lifters are lubed up, installed into their trays, and placed into the block. These high-energy hydraulic roller lifters are a performance replacement for the stockers. A 10mm bolt retains each tray, tightened snugly. | 
Time to replace the timing chain. The crank is rotated until the keyway is about at the 1 o' clock position-this allows the dot on the crank sprocket tooth to be straight up (top dead center No. 1). |