Nick Stevko aligns the cam sprocket dot straight down to meet up with the crank sprocket dot, and then installs the three timing set bolts. The bolts are cinched up in a "star" pattern similar to tightening a wheel down. Nick wiggles the sprocket until the cam sprocket alignment pin slips into the sprocket hole. He then removes the bolts, uses red Loctite on each bolt, and reinstalls and torques them to 26 lb-ft. | 
The SLP oil pump will get the red spring for 5 extra pounds of bypass oil pressure. Nick installs it and tightens the cover down to 106 lb/in. It's easier to install the oil pump with the engine in the car if you take off the cover and pull out the gears, because it gives you more room move the pump to align the pickup- tube O-ring. Corvettes have room, but F-bodies are very tight in this area. The O- ring under Nick's left finger is lubed with engine oil before installation, and then he places the oil pump body over the crank sprocket, angling the pickup tube toward the front of the car. | 
He points out where the O-ring is seated. Though we used a replacement single iming chain, and therefore there is less of a chance for a problem, people who run double-rollers need to be very careful that the O-ring doesn't get pinched in the rear as the pickup tube is tightened down. |
He uses a magnet to get this bolt back in. Although GM recommends dropping the oil pan, TTP saves a ton of time and hassle by using this method. He finishes tightening it by using a bent 10mm end wrench. The inner and outer gears are installed after he lubes them with oil. | 
The pump cover is placed and its seven bolts are tightened down, also to 106 lb/in. Nick Loctites the four oil pump-to-block bolts and spins them in by hand. They are tightened to 18 lb-ft. | 
With a new timing cover gasket placed, a dab of silicone goes on the bottom corners where the oil pan meets the block. The eight front bolts are lightly snugged, then the bottom two through the oil pan go in and are torqued to 18 lb- ft. Next, the front eight are torqued. Don't tighten the front bolts first, as doing so could crack the oil pan. |
The graphite head gaskets are placed. | 
The Patriot heads are wiped down one last time, and Jason drops them onto the block. | 
The heads are now tightened; the long bolts are first torqued to 22 lb-ft, then 90 degrees, and on the final pass all the long bolts get 90 degrees; the shorter bolts on the upper corners only get 50 degrees. All the small bolts that go on the intake side (the upper part of head) get red Loctite and are torqued to 22 lb-ft. |