The rusty original 100,000-mile hubs were sanded a bit,... | 
...then treated with some antiseize before the new EBC rotors were slid onto the studs. | 
The Yellowstuff pads were then placed into the caliper... |
...and clipped in before bolting it back up. | 
Earl's Performance Plumbing, a division of Holley Performance, kindlysuppliedthese Teflon-coated stainless steel brake lines for increased pedal feel and firmness as well as a quicker distribution of fluid into the caliper. For about $95, the Hyperfirm Brake Line Kit (PN 28A030ERL) will protect against abrasion and swelling,significantly improving overall braking performance cheaply and efficiently-two of our favorite words. | 
A 12mm line wrench was needed on the brake booster and 3/8 on the line that would be connecting to the solenoid, which was then bolted to the body. |
Though very similar, the procedure is a tad different on the rear brakes. A 15mm wrench is needed for the caliper and bracket, and when replacing, the bracket and caliper need to go on together. It may be necessary to sand down the caliper to get the pads to fit.It's important to remove the crush washer on the caliper, as it will tear otherwise. | 
In the rear there is an axle-mounted "T" distribution block that feeds the lines,which is why there is a fifth line in the kit. A 14mm wrench is needed toconnect the center line, and a 13mm connects the lines to the "T." | 
A line-lock kit is a must for any drag racer as it prevents rearend differential damage during the burnout, as well as rear brake wear. We've had good success with SLP Performance's Brake Control Package (PN 24049) in the past for itsease of installation, quality construction, and reliable performance. A waterproof electric solenoid, activation switch, plug-in wires, CNC-bent steel lines, OEfittings,mounting hardware, and detailed instructions are all included in this neat little package for about $155. |