Buick Turbo - Power Trip - Tech

To install the line lock, Brian disconnects the brake line going into the brake reservoir, and attaches the hard line from the line lock into this spot. The line that originally went into the reservoir is gently bent, then run into the line lock itself. There are two wires: one goes to ground, and the other goes to the switch in the ashtray. Cotton connects the other end of the switch to a wire tapped into an ignition power source in the fuse box.

Turbo Buick owners know just how important it is to keep the mediocre-at-best braking system in top form; not just for stopping power after a 120-plus mph quarter-mile run, but also because an optimized rear drum setup is key for holding boost on the line. Cotton's Performance stocks Durastop front rotors (PN 19171304, $280), high-performance ceramic front pads (PN PGD154C, $50), and rear drums (PN 18028393, $110), as well as Rear Brake Shoes Sets (PN 6722-Buick, $42). However, my front brakes were the ones that needed love, and as the rears were in decent shape with fairly new soft brake shoes, recently turned drums, and S-10 wheel-cylinders, we left 'em alone for now.

Two 3/8 Allen-head bolts retain the caliper. Brian removes them and lifts the caliper out. The old pads are removed and tossed.

The dust cover is removed, and he pulls the cotter pin out before removing the nut.

He pulls the first bearing out, replaces the nut, and pulls out on the rotor, which dislodges the second bearing.

After cleaning the bearings out with a parts cleaner and spraying with brake clean, an air-powered bearing packer is used.

The large bearing goes in first on the back of the rotor, then the seal goes on and is tapped into place with a hammer.

Then the smaller bearing on the front goes on. The rotor is slipped onto the spindle, a washer is placed, and the nut is screwed down. Cotton tightens the nut down until he feels tension; then the cotter pin is replaced.

The cap is tapped into place, and then he replaces the other front rotor. Afterwards, Brian uses soapy water and a Scotch-Brite pad to remove oil from the rotors.