Strange S60 & Moser M9 Rearends - Bullet Proof Backends - Tech

Moving to the ends of the axle tubes, the four T-bolts must be slid in, but we find that Moser's powdercoating is so thick that we have to grind the inside of their holes with a die grinder (the same will go for the LCA bolt holes and the torque arm mounting tabs, by the way) before hammering them in place. A seal is then gently tapped into each axle tube. Continue until it is fully seated against the edge inside, and be sure to install with the flat side facing out as shown.

Time to install the axles, which in our case are Moser's 31-spline Custom Alloy units made from magnafluxed, induction-heat-treated, alloy steel (making them ideal for both race and street use). Axles with up to 40 splines are available on the M9, but they will require use of a spool. Moser also included reluctor rings for our four-channel ABS system for an additional $175. Get started by cutting the warranty stickers off of them and wiping with Brakleen. Let the axles dry, then begin inserting them into the correct tubes (the shorter axle goes on the driver side). On the way in, you may need to twist each axle slightly to get its splines lined up with those in the pumpkin.

When the axle is almost in, there are a few things to be aware of. First, one must lube the O-ring that sits on the outside of the bearing with gear oil; you do not want it to rip! A hammer must then be used to tap the axle in part of the way. Align the brake backing plate so that the bolt holes for the caliper mounting bracket will face forward (or in our case, up, as the rear is still cocked 90 degrees).

Before starting the nuts onto the axle T-bolts, be sure to slide the four-channel ABS sensor in place, or else tight clearance between it and the axle tube end flange will not allow it to go in! Conversely, you cannot insert the sensor too early, or it will contact the reluctor ring on the axle and not allow the axle tube T-bolts to line up.

The nuts are tightened onto the T-bolts, helping push the axle the rest of the way in. Though lockwashers were included to use on these, we found that they caused the bolts to engage only about half of the threads in the nuts, so we opted for threadlocker instead. Also note that the parking brake shoe assembly should be unsecured (via a screw in a small metal clip) and swung out of the way to get at these bolt ends. It may not swing back on without hitting the axle hub, in which case you will just have to pull the shoe assembly off (this is easier than it looks-in this photo, a yank to the left is all it took), wrap it around the axle hub, and slide it back on. By the way, we're using big 1/2-inch wheel studs on our axles (which require corresponding new lugs), but 5/8-inch ones are also available for even more strength.

The stock rotors slide on, and the stock calipers are installed and torqued to stock spec (74 ft-lb). Moser, unfortunately, supplies no provisions for brake-line attachments. Without going into too much detail, we'll just say that we were able to make some modifications to the stock bracket where the lines come from the body (left of hands in photo) and attach it to one of the studs securing the pumpkin. The brake lines themselves fit the contours of the rear more or less well, though another bracket was added atop the rear after this photo was taken to help keep things in place. Here I zip tie the factory ABS wiring harness to the brake lines.