LS1 FBody Performance Kit - Instant Gratification

For years, fourth-gen F-body enthusiasts have clamored for the low-end power and reliability that only a positive displacement blower can provide, and unfortunately the tight-fitting cowl didn't seem to provide the clearance needed for such a modification. However, where others saw a roadblock, Ed Potter of Late Model Speed saw possibility. Building off a relationship established while employed across town at Lingenfelter Performance, Potter worked with the folks at Magnuson to put together an assortment of parts from Magna Charger kits for various other LS applications. Meanwhile, the task of somehow achieving additional cowl clearance would land squarely on his shoulders. We visited the Decatur, Indiana, shop to see just how he accomplished that task, and how a Magna Charged low-mile LS1 TA convertible would fare on the dyno.

Ed Potter of LM Speed, who designed the kit, said that he composed the Magna Charger F-body kit using mostly a C5 setup with the inlet from a GTO kit and the extra large heat exchanger and reservoir from the Radix truck kit. For mostly stock (or bolt-on) cars like our tester, the Eaton-based 112 blower is recommended; however, the LMS mods allow for the bigger 122 blower suitable for ported heads and bigger cubes. An air-to-water intercooler with accompanying reservoir, water pump, and hoses is included, as is a lower-profile valley cover, intake gaskets, assorted vacuum hoses, a new serpentine belt, and fuel system upgrades.	To fit the blower, a chunk of the cowl must be removed and replaced with this piece of sheetmetal, and the front subframe is lowered via these spacers and longer bolts. The blower inlet matches up to the factory airbox using a fabricated adapter piece, a Holley billet 90mm throttle body, and a modified stock style air lid-though you can cut your current lid for the proper angle to the throttle body.	Technician Amos Tanner got started on Arick Hendrickson's 2002 WS6 convertible by draining the radiator and A/C system prior to removing the radiator and fan assembly, which also needs to be unhooked from all attaching hoses and electrical connections.
The intake tract must also be removed, including the intake manifold-which means unhooking the fuel rails and throttle cable, and unplugging the injectors and vacuum hoses. This can be done before or after the engine cradle (K-member) has been unbolted and lowered down a few inches. Please note: lowering the engine cradle means unhooking the brake lines, and unbolting the trans from the crossmember as well. The added clearance and access to the bottom of the cowl will be needed to complete the install.	The wipers and plastic cowl cover will need to be removed prior to slicing that bad boy up. Amos said that a battery terminal puller is very helpful in removing stubborn wipers.	Stick-on templates are provided to match up perfectly to the cowl, which follow its unique contours to allow easy alignment. A marker is used to draw an outline on the top and underside of the cowl where it needs to be cut.
An air-powered cutting wheel makes short work of the cowl, cutting along the inside of the marked edges. For those of you who feel uneasy about this part, Ed assures that the cowl is not part of the structural integrity of the unibody and cutting it will in no way weaken the frame.	Depending on the quality of the cut, the supplied piece of sheetmetal may need to be modified to fit just right. There is an extra tab that Amos bent out of the way using a hammer prior to welding. Once the cowl is patched, silicone is used to seal it and it is painted to prevent rust.	Since the test car had an ASP underdrive crank pulley, it had to be replaced with the stock piece in order to ensure only 7 psi of boost would be cranked out (using the supplied blower pulley). However, given the extra force being exerted on it and its pressed-on style, pinning or keying the crank to hold the crank pulley in place is required.