2006 Chevrolet Corvette Trick Flow Specialties Cylinder Heads Install - "Trick" Or Treat

The spark plugs come out (along with the dipstick tube on the passenger side), followed by the bolts securing our ARH headers to the stock cylinder heads (see "Solely Stainless, Totally Tubular," May 2007). The headers fortunately can be pushed away enough to access all the head bolts, as shown. This negates having to get the headers and accompanying X-pipe completely out, which saves some time and effort.

The upper hose is disconnected from the radiator. We do the same for the coolant air bleed hose as well as the two bolts holding the power steering reservoir to the alternator bracket. The bracket and reservoir can't come out together because the one bolt hits the back of the reservoir, and the reservoir can't come out of the bracket without disconnecting the hose at the bottom. Great design, huh? (Don't worry, it gets worse.) Once done, swing the reservoir out of the way to give more access to the BPMV. Try to guess what that stands for before moving to the next photo caption.

Disconnect the brake lines on the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (10 points to whoever got that right -call it the ABS pump if you prefer) after carefully vacuuming or blowing it off and labeling each connection, as we've done here. All of this brake fluid-y mess is required thanks to the power steering pulley obstructing access to the power steering pump bolts, and the BPMV obstructing access to the pulley. (Dispose of brake fluid properly-that means NOT in with your used engine oil, and not in the garbage. And don't even dream of walking out to that storm drain at the end of your driveway). A single nut comes off either side of the BPMV, two electrical connections are unplugged, and the unit comes out the top. Underneath the car, two 13mm bolts hold the unit's bracket to the crossmember.

The power steering pulley comes off with a GM-compatible power steering pulley puller, available at any good auto parts store. Four 13mm bolts secure the pump to the alternator bracket. The pump can tilt forward (its pressure line underneath can thankfully stay intact, which minimizes any air entering the system). Two more 15mm bolts hold the alternator bracket to the head, and then the bracket is free at last.

The remaining emissions lines come off of the top of the engine, then the intake assembly comes off via ten 8mm bolts. Tip: Disconnect the brake booster line at the firewall (just next to the brake master cylinder); this is much easier than pulling it off the back of the intake. Also remove the front coolant air bleed pipe at this time via two 10mm bolts. The valve covers come off via four 8mm bolts each, but keep that socket handy, as you'll need it for the rocker bolts as well. Loosen them all on each head and lift off the whole assembly-rocker stand and all-as a unit. Then take the pushrods out. Also, visible in this photo is a substantial quantity of dirt where the valley cover and block/head meet: wipe these areas with a solvent-soaked paper towel, or grime will fall into the lifter trays or other parts of the engine when the heads are removed.

Before taking the heads off, we move the starter motor to get at this coolant drain plug in the block. While not completely necessary, draining as much coolant as possible from the engine may help prevent liquid from entering the head bolt holes and other critical areas when the heads are removed. When replaced, use Teflon paste and torque to 44 ft-lb.

The twenty M11 (15mm socket) head bolts must be loosened with a big breaker bar (impact gun = you're buying a new block), and this is basically a two-dude operation. Here, assistants "Fat Pops" and "Red" share yet another intimate moment of cooperation, with me documenting it on camera as usual. With the M11 bolts out of the engine, the five M8 head bolts per side are taken out, noting that the rearmost bolt on each head can't come out without removing the coolant air bleed caps. Don't lose their O-rings.

The passenger-side head has a 15mm bolt on its backside securing a wiring harness bracket that might not be accessible until you move the head up and forward slightly (just yanking it will not yield the results you are looking for). The heads come easily thanks to the minimally sticky nature of the factory MLS gaskets.

The head gaskets are peeled from the deck surfaces, and parts removal is complete. It's everyone's least-favorite part of any dirty undertaking: cleanup time. First we chase the M11 head bolt holes in the block, as factory thread compound is notoriously left over here. This special clean-out tap is available from ARP and designed exactly for this purpose.