Those of you who remember the 12.4 at 112 miles an hour that this LS1 F-body pulled out last time at E-Town might recall that there were some wheelhop problems on burnout and launch. With one call to BMR Fabrication, I acquired some seriously beefy parts to strengthen the suspension: an adjustable torque arm and BMR's new billet lower control arms.
Additionally, it appears that the road-course abuse I've heaped on the stock clutch hydraulics and aftermarket fluid has caught up to it: shifting has become noticeably notchy, and powershifting just isn't happening at the strip.
With time running short before delving into a big project with this ride, I turned to TT Performance Parts to install the BMR goodies, as well as diagnose and attempt to fix the hydraulics issue, in the hopes of having a solid dragstrip performance. Check out the captions to see how we did.
 Though this Z28 does have...  Though this Z28 does have a few performance suspension pieces-like a Panhard, springs, shocks, and sway bar-the stock lower control arms and torque arm aren't doing us any favors when the throttle is dropped in anger. Some pretty serious wheelhop showed up last time at the track, something that needs to be addressed now. |  BMR's adjustable torque arm...  BMR's adjustable torque arm for '82-02 F-bodies (part number TA001, $329) is built with 1.25x0.120-inch tubing and 0.25-inch mounting plates, and MIG-welded. This arm will clear all exhaust systems and works with stock and aftermarket rears that utilize a factory-style "through" bolt to connect to the torque arm. And if you're looking for a seriously beefy set of lower control arms, BMR's new billet LCAs (ACA002, $229) should more than satisfy you. These suckers are CNC-machined from a chunk of 2x2.5-inch 6061 T6 aluminum alloy, then anodized black for a sweet look. They even offer thicker bushing and sleeve material for heavy-duty use. |  Check out the difference between...  Check out the difference between the BMR torque arm (top) and the factory arm's construction. |
 Nick takes one LCA off with...  Nick takes one LCA off with an 18mm wrench. He loosens the bolts on the driver side but doesn't remove them, as this will move the rear forward and make installation of the new arms difficult. |  He wire-wheels the stock bolts...  He wire-wheels the stock bolts and nuts, then lubes the factory mounting brackets with grease. |  Next, he slips the front of...  Next, he slips the front of the BMR LCA in and hand-tightens the bolt. Nick lifts the back of the LCA into place-it doesn't line up yet. |