2001 Chevy Camaro Z28 LS3 Dual Disc Clutch & Wiring Harness Install - Fourth-Gen Gen IV

The flywheel is bolted down with our Loc-tited ARP bolts, and torqued to 85 foot-pounds.

He uses an actual input shaft to install the clutch disc for accurate alignment.

The floater disc is installed with three Loc-tited bolts, and tightened. The pressure plate, floater disc, and flywheel all are marked for proper alignment.

The second clutch disc is installed, and then he installs the stands.

The pressure plate goes on, and he checks alignment again with the input shaft. Rob Loc-tites the nuts and runs them down. The steel stands get torqued down to 30 foot-pounds, and the composite stands get 20 foot-pounds, with Flores holding the flywheel with a pry bar edge on the teeth.

TTP installed an early version of RAM's new slave cylinder, which still has lines that use compression fittings (RAM says an updated version will use an adapter fitting). We were somewhat puzzled at the amount of shims needed until we realized that the directions called for one way to install, but the correct F-body way was different.

In what ended up needing two shim stacks, Rob and Matt measured from the installed bearing face to the face of the trans, and from the clutch fingers to the face of the trans. The numbers are as follows: 1.924 inches from bearing face to face of trans (front of bellhousing mount), and 2.155 inches from the clutch fingers to the face of trans (front of bellhousing mount). So 2.155 minus 1.924 equals .231-inch. As RAM calls for a reading over .200-inch, we should be in the ballpark.

During teardown, TTP finally discovered the source of my powershifting problems: due to either an incorrect fit or incorrect clocking of the SFI bellhousing put on during the six-speed swap, the clutch was never fully releasing, causing constant heat and wear. (The SPEC showed not only way too much wear for so few miles, but uneven wear as well). This problem pretty much doomed any attempt at clean, fast shifts. As I did not want to have a repeat of those problems, I reached out to Six Speeds Inc in Houston (888/937-4411) to see if they had a stock bellhousing. Amber was able to get one out to me ASAP, and even included the factory bolts. Thanks Amber! The bellhousing is installed to the trans with eight bolts.

Finally, the alignment pins look good, so Rob drops the car to meet the subframe. Three bolts on each side connect the subframe to the body; an impact with an 18mm socket tightens them. The trans crossmember and spindles can also be reconnected.

Time to install RAM's adjustable master cylinder. This is a two-man job; Jay sits in the engine bay with a 13mm end wrench and holds the master. Rob crawls under the dash and uses a 13mm socket to install the bolts.

Though the LS3 has its own MAP sensor installed on the top front of the engine, the calibration is not right for our LS1 ECM. The LS3 MAP stays in to keep the hole plugged, but we'll be utilizing the plugged-off port in the rear of the intake manifold as a source for the stock LS1 MAP sensor. Best to do this now before the engine gets reinstalled! A pair of pliers takes the cover off and a punch clears the hole so vacuum can be accessed. The HVAC vacuum line will be reconnected here.

The time comes to reconnect the subframe with the car. This is done by using a jack with the engine/subframe and also lowering the car down. When this is done, special care must be taken with the wiring harness, brake lines, A/C compressor and its lines, shifter, fans, and other accessories (you can see here that the power steering pump has been reinstalled).