If that's not bad enough, some of the standard equipment that came on our beloved Canadian-built machines is now far outdated. It seems every car on the road has power windows, side impact air bags, multi-disc CD players, HID or Xenon headlights. Our F-bodies seem prehistoric in comparison. What's a brotha to do? Well for starters we can begin replacing all the broken stuff, and throw some new technology into the mix to get our F-bods looking, feeling and even smelling like new. Follow along on our last installment of our LT1 Formula's restoration as we team up with Classic Restoration, Gillin Custom Design, Roadwire, Electric-Life, and Year One.
 Let's face it, our fourth-gens...  Let's face it, our fourth-gens aren't new anymore; matter of fact, far from it. The hatch and window glass doesn't seal well, if you're lucky the T-tops are leaking, the hood or hatch struts are shot, the armrest and the power window switches are broken. |  The stock bulbs on our '94...  The stock bulbs on our '94 Formula paled in comparison to virtually every other car on the road, and it didn't take much to overdrive the headlights. Though we were tempted to do an HID conversion, adding Sylvania's Silverstar headlights seemed a nice compromise. The early fourth-gens use a sealed-beam style light with dual filaments for high and low beam. The H4666ST Silverstar has a color temperature of around 4000k, making it brighter and whiter than your standard halogen--making night driving safer. |  To install it was just a matter...  To install it was just a matter of unscrewing the bezel,... |
 ...applying it to the new...  ...applying it to the new headlights and inserting it into the bucket. |  While we were refurbishing...  While we were refurbishing the headlights, it seemed the perfect opportunity to upgrade the gears in the motor. I stumbled across Brent Franker's website and he was gracious enough to send me a set of his CNC-machined brass gears (he now machines them out of aluminum). They go for $45 a set, and are a great fix to the common headlight failure. |  Most often what happens is...  Most often what happens is that the stock nylon gears get chewed up and worn (as seen here), and will no longer lock down into place. As the result, when you turn the lights off the bucket cycles down, and then pops back up again. |
 Removing the motor is pretty...  Removing the motor is pretty simple, it's just a matter of removing the trim piece around the bucket with a screwdriver, removing the nut that connects the arm to the motor, unplugging the motor, and loosening up a few 10mm nuts that secure it to the bracket. Then the cap (to the gear housing) gets pried off with a flat top screwdriver, the gear is removed, and the housing is treated to some fresh grease. Graphite grease is recommended. |  The brass gear is greased...  The brass gear is greased as well, and the metal shaft is transferred over from the stock gear. The tabs slide into the holes on the face of the gear. |  The supplied epoxy is applied...  The supplied epoxy is applied to the cover to reseal it, and it is left clamped in a vice for a few hours. The epoxy needs a full 24 hours to cure though, so don't expect to go jump in your car and pop the headlights on. |