1994 Pontiac Firebird Formula Headlight, Power Window Motors & Interior Refurbish - Like New

Here is how the fresh weatherstripping arrives from Year One, all packaged up like giant sticks of black licorice. If you peruse Year One's extensive third and fourth-gen catalogue (yes they have an entire 300+page catalogue just for late model F-bodies), you'll find every piece you'll need to make your F-body sound and feel like new again. The door opening and rear hatch/trunk will run you about $273 for hardtops (p/n W54LH, W54RH, TR235), meanwhile T-tops will spend nearly double that, not including new rubber to seal the glass tops.

...around the door simply pushes...

...into place using a flathead.

Classic Restoration owner Melvin Benzaquen demonstrates how well the door now seals. That's money! (Okay bad joke.)

The hatch struts have to be removed to install the new weatherstripping.

We used this opportunity to put in a fresh set of struts,...

...so the hatch stops hitting me in the head every time I go to put a 30-pack in the trunk. These babies run just under $47 a piece at Year One (p/n H419 for Firebird/Formula).

Ever wonder why your window rattles when you shut the door? It's because the felt padding on its locator has come off as seen here. Simple solution: replace it!

Last but not least, the new window belts from Year One are snapped and clipped into place.

One of the power window motors was becoming slow and heading for a burn out, so we hooked up with Electric-Life for a direct bolt-in kit that is far superior to the factory GM pieces. In fact, you can convert your crank window stripper with their kit as well. For $317.80 (p/n GM-70K) you get two complete regulators with motors, and the wiring and hardware required. Not a bad investment for the added insurance of knowing you'll never have to replace them again.

A 10 and 13mm socket is needed to unbolt the glass, then the rivets that connect the stock motor to the door must be drilled out and replaced by screws with the new motor.