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383 LS1 Stroker Epilogue - My First Stroker: Epilogue
So what's the problem with doing this, oil-coated engine compartments notwithstanding? Some quick background information on what a PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system does is in order. One of the first emissions controls introduced in the U.S., the PCV system started showing up on production cars in the 1960s. Its function is to circulate fresh air (the source of which is typically located between the air filter and throttle body) through the crankcase of the engine. This clean air picks up nasty stuff like blow-by gases and their constituents (unburned fuel, water vapor, etc.) as it goes. Now contaminated, the air is then sucked by manifold vacuum through our friend the PCV valve, into the intake manifold, and finally into the cylinders to be burned during combustion. Now imagine not having such a system on a street-going car. Some of those blow-by gases wisp their way out of your valve-cover-mounted breather, but without intake manifold vacuum to suck new air through, lots of contaminated air festers inside the crankcase. Therefore, a lot of that unburned fuel and water vapor deposits itself into your engine oil. The result? Engine longevity and internal cleanliness suffers, no matter how often you change your oil. In hindsight, I should have thought a bit harder about how to keep an operational PCV system on this engine. Heck, had I spoken to some experts or even just perused the message boards, I would have known the valley cover-mounted LS6 PCV system would have been an easy fix for my baffle-less valve cover conundrum. But let's let bygones be bygones-time to correct past wrongdoings. Since I am not about to pull my FAST intake to get at the valley cover (I'm not sure that would even be physically possible at this point, as I routed the entire nitrous system and wiring harness with the engine out of the car), I would still need to use the LS1 PCV system in some form. This left me stuck with the valve covers as the only route to access crankcase air; but with no baffles, I couldn't keep prodigious quantities of oil from getting in the PCV system's lines. My solution is not to prevent this from happening, but rather to remove the excess oil from the contaminated air before it reaches the intake manifold by using a so-called catch can. A catch can is a great thing to have on any modded high-performance engine, as excess oil vapor entering into the combustion process is said to sometimes cause detonation and even harmful buildup inside the cylinder. In this case, there is a lot more oil vapor involved than usual, so it's even more critical. We picked up a Gen2 PCV Catch Can from Norris Motorsports; check out the photos for the install. While this catch can is meant to be a plug-and-play design into a factory PCV system, I had to do a bit of homemade engineering thanks to the previously gutted nature of my particular system. Despite my best attempts, I could not reach where I had originally snipped and blocked off the contaminated air source at the "balance pipe" connecting the rears of the LS1's valve covers (I've since discovered, by the way, that this is part of a "dual draw" system designed to suck air from one or the other valve cover under extremely hard cornering; good thing I'm not headed to Road America anytime soon with this bad boy.) In order to create a new source, I bought a cheapo PCV valve at Pep Boys along with an equally cheap oil cap to go where my breather formerly was. I drilled a hole in the top of the cap and stuck the valve in with a grommet. Combined with the factory oil cap "riser," I figured this would lift the PCV valve far enough away from the fast-moving, pressure-fed rockers to suck in at least a little less pulverized oil mist. (As it turns out, my system seems to have worked flawlessly since installation, so I must have done something right!)  Norris Motorsports offers...  Norris Motorsports offers several versions of its sturdy, well-constructed PCV catch can to fit the aesthetic tastes of the car owner. We're using the Gen2 version ($119), which includes upgraded -6AN fittings (in our case, black) for a cleaner, meaner look. The provided 3/8-inch hose is shown in one piece, but it's designed to be cut into two pieces to fit your application (one for inlet, one for outlet). The brass fitting at the bottom of the catch can is the drain valve that must be periodically emptied of oil residue. |  Here's a disassembled view...  Here's a disassembled view of the internals of the Norris Motorsports PCV catch can showing the oil-separating media contained near its inlet. As contaminated crankcase air passes through here, the oil we're worried about is filtered out and subsequently drips harmlessly to the bottom of the catch can for later draining and collection, therefore sending virtually oil-free crankcase air on to the intake manifold. As a side benefit of less oil being burned in the combustion chambers, emissions are slightly reduced, too. |  Before installing the catch...  Before installing the catch can, we need to make a new fresh air line to lead between the throttle body and front fitting of the passenger side valve cover. Luckily we have some extra hose lying around, which is cut to length (attempts to locate the stock hose were fruitless). You can also see we've already installed the newly fabricated oil fill cap and PCV valve assembly. |  Some minor adjustments to...  Some minor adjustments to the locations of the nitrous system components are necessary to make room for the catch can, and we also use a long bolt and old piece of aluminum tubing to attach the catch can bracket to the cylinder head. The inlet and outlet of the catch can are attached to the PCV valve and intake manifold, respectively. Finally, although the necessity of it is debatable, we insert an additional one-way valve in the fresh air line to prevent blowback of oil vapor when crankcase pressure spikes during nitrous operation. |  TTP's Matt Sorian is a smart...  TTP's Matt Sorian is a smart man, donning hearing protection to prevent aural injury from our `Bird's cutout-equipped Borla catback. The cats quiet it down a little, but this sucker is still super loud! |  Sorian tweaks the timing and...  Sorian tweaks the timing and fuel tables, coming up with more than 8 horsepower and 4-lb-ft gain over the existing tune. Gains are most visible everywhere from 4,000 RPM on up, and the final totals of roughly 446hp and 432-lb-ft are respectable indeed for a car with as docile street manners as this one. |
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