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1000hp LS1 - Bottoms UpPart 1 of our fully-forged, boost-ready and 1,000HP-capable 370 cubic-inch iron block. From the February, 2012 issue of GM High-Tech Performance By Justin Cesler Photography by The Author
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Ah, the black art of successful engine building. If you're going to step down the path of having an engine built for big power, you're going to need some skill, a ton of research, a little luck and, ultimately, a lot of money. We've all known someone who has been burnt by an engine build (some literally), so we understand if it makes anyone nervous, but engine building needn't be a terrifying experience if you are willing to build the right team, trust in their decisions, and work together towards a common goal. For this particular series, we're focused on building a 370 cubic-inch LQ9 engine for our standing mile WS6 Trans Am, which we've covered in past issues during the turbo system fabrication and front suspension install. If you're familiar with the project, you know we're going all out, but that doesn't mean you can't learn a thing or two about your own project, whether it's a mild rebuild or an engine more radical than ours, by following along as we watch the masters of our industry assemble SALT's new iron lung. Of course, every build begins with a block and for us, that meant procuring a stock GM LQ9 iron "truck" block, which is a tried-and-true foundation for almost any boosted or sprayed engine build. Although the LQ9 engine block is a cheap alternative to the much more robust aftermarket offerings, it still offers plenty of strength and has proven itself reliable around the 1,000-hp mark in several builds we've seen over the years. And, while this obviously isn't a budget build, having 500-bucks into our block made it a lot easier to get started, as opposed to dropping thousands. Of course, we will have to be careful with overall power production and our tune up as the factory iron block can only do so much, even with the upgrades that Proline Racing had planned. Inside, we didn't want to cut any corners, so we selected parts that had a proven track record, could hopefully withstand our abusive testing, and help us reach our final goal of 200-mph in the standing mile. Down low, this meant selecting a killer Lunati Pro Series 3.622-inch stroke crankshaft (PN JH711ER), which has been forged in America from 4340 steel and tested to withstand over 1,500-horsepower. With gun drilled mains, 3/4-inch drilled rod journals for reduced inertia, micropolished journals, and a pulse plasma nitride treating, the Pro Series line of crankshafts from Lunati are a top quality piece and something we can count on under duress even in harsh environments such as the mile. We paired that Lunati crankshaft with a set of matching Pro Series I-beam connecting rods, which are forged from the same 4340 steel as the crankshaft and CNC-machined to perfection. Designed specifically for "higher horsepower and more RPM" the 6.125-inch rods (PN JP6125-8) feature ARP 2000 rod bolts, weigh in at 635-grams a piece and are shot peened, magnafluxed, and sonic tested before leaving the factory. With Ampco 45 bushings and file-hardened locators, the Pro Series rods can handle a significant amount of horsepower and torque for sustained periods of time. A set of chamfered Calico coated bearings (PN 5M 7298 H and 1B 663 HD) were also spec'd for the build, and are more than capable of handling the job and keeping everything inside the engine rotating freely. Up top, we continued picking killer parts for our rotating assembly and ordered a set of serious slugs from Nick D'agostino at Diamond Racing. Built for "1,800-hp and 25-to-30 pounds of boost," Diamond constructed a set of custom 4.030-inch finish bore pistons from a 2618 alloy, which feature a .240-inch thick crown, 1.5/1.5/3.0-mm ring grooves, a .280-inch thick top ring land, a conical dish, double pin oilers with slots, side gas ports, and Diamond's in-house hard anodizing coating combined with a Moly-skirt coating for superior thermal management, power production, and reliability. Built for our Trick Flow 235cc heads (oops, did we just give that away?) with 70cc chambers, the Diamond pistons will give us an aggressive 10:1 compression ratio and round out the combination with 370 cubic-inches, which should make for killer power under boost. Tough .927-inch diameter wrist pins were also spec'd for our build and were fit to the pistons before shipping by Diamond, which is a nice touch and they even shipped with a set of Total Seal rings (PN 201035), which we would have to file to fit. 1 Ok, so this isn’t exactly... 1 Ok, so this isn’t exactly how we recommend you start your 1,000-hp engine build, but this is how we did it… with a sight unseen 6-liter iron block that was covered in rust and grime and looked more like a relic found on the Titanic than a viable engine platform. Luckily the cylinder walls looked good and the professionals over at Proline Racing had the knowledge and equipment to turn our boat anchor into a real work of art. Finally, we come to the most important piece of the puzzle, the builders. You already know how crucial the right engine team is, so it should come as no surprise that we teamed up with some of the best in the LS game for this engine build, namely the crew at Vengeance Racing and the engine builders at Proline Racing, both of whom are located just outside Atlanta, GA. Ron Mowen, the owner of Vengeance Racing served as our spec man, offering guidance and years of experience to help select the parts you see here. Jay Healy of Vengeance Racing is our lead fabricator and you'll see his handy work on the top end in an upcoming issue. For the bottom end, shown here, Ron brought in the big guns at Proline Racing: Eric Dillard, Tim Lynch (yes, that Tim Lynch), and their talented team of machinists to prep our 6-liter iron block. We can't stress enough how important the right team is for a build like this or any build really, so make sure you do your research (we've featured several excellent engine builders in the past) and pick people you trust... your engine, money and happiness are all on the line with a project of this caliber.  2 We intend to push this...  2 We intend to push this engine as hard as we can for upwards of 30-seconds at a time, which meant prepping the block for the installation of ARP 1/2-inch head studs was crucial. While a time consuming and critical process, Proline handles drilling and tapping the iron block for the 1/2-inch studs on their in-house Bridgeport mill. Accuracy is of the utmost importance, so we wouldn’t recommend farming this out to just anyone.  3 With the 1/2-inch stud...  3 With the 1/2-inch stud holes drilled and tapped, Proline moved the block into the CBN cutter, which is used to properly deck the block. Making sure to align everything and cut a level surface, the Proline CBN cutter shaved our block down to a 9.24-inch deck height and achieved a smooth, flat surface in no time.  4 Moving below the deck,...  4 Moving below the deck, Proline installed and properly stretched/torqued our ARP main studs in place before align honing the main caps for proper bearing clearance. For our build, Proline specified a .0024-.0026 main clearance using the Calico coated 5M 7298 H bearings hung around the 2.5588-inch Lunati crank.  5 After boring/honing the...  5 After boring/honing the cylinders to fit the 4.030-inch Diamond pistons and 4.035-inch Total Seal rings and after checking the camshaft bore on a separate machine, Proline removed the main caps and studs from the block and thoroughly cleaned the engine using their in-house hot tank. Once complete, the engine block was inspected again, painted semi-gloss black and delivered to one of Proline’s engine assemblers, Tim Lynch, for the final assembly.  6 Ring gap and final fit...  6 Ring gap and final fit is essential to a strong running and reliable engine, and as such each builder relies on years of experience and knowledge to determine the best combination for a given engine. After talking about our project goals with Tim, he began fitting the rings to our engine, knowing that we needed an engine that would run strong for a mile at a time and stay together during our abusive testing and tuning.  7 Proline’s facility is decked...  7 Proline’s facility is decked out with tons of cool gadgets and Tim uses this professional grade ring filer to make quick and precise work out of fitting the rings. Using a set of Total Seal CS 201035 rings, Tim filed and deburred them here, making sure to take a little at a time to avoid going too far and having to start all over with another set.  8 For the top and second...  8 For the top and second rings Tim was looking for a gap of .020-inches, which is “tight” for a 4.030-inch bore, but exactly what Proline was looking for given the build. Both top rings are 4.035-inches and a .020-inch gap will create a tight engine with little blow-by. We’re going to have to keep an eye on detonation for sure, but that’s a discussion for another time.  9 Fitting the rings is done...  9 Fitting the rings is done cylinder by cylinder and although each should be identical, it’s important to keep them in the correct spot during the entire installation procedure. Here you can see how Tim sets them in the bore until he is ready to install the pistons.  10 Time for the main journals...  10 Time for the main journals to receive their Calico coated bearings. Prior to this final assembly, Proline align honed the journals and measured clearance, looking for .0024-.0026-inches along the mains. Here you can see the bearings in place, ready for the crankshaft to be dropped in place…  11 But not before installing...  11 But not before installing a set of ARP main studs (PN 234-5608) and coating the bearings in a layer of Permatex Ultra Slick assembly lubricant. A word of advice, it is possible to incorrectly install the main studs with the short studs on the outside, so make sure you check this before dropping the crank in place.  12 Speaking of cranks, Lunati’s...  12 Speaking of cranks, Lunati’s Pro Series 3.622-inch crankshaft is a serious piece and features gun drilled mains, lightened rod journals, and micropolished journals for a perfect fit and finish. Forged from 4340 steel, the Lunati crankshaft required little balancing once received by Proline (1815 bob weight) and accepted a standard 24x reluctor wheel without issue.  13 A close up of the main...  13 A close up of the main and rod journals shows the precision work that is built into each Lunati Pro Series crankshaft. Of note, chamfered bearings must be used with any Pro Series crankshaft and Calico makes a great set to ride on the 2.5588- and 2.0991-inch main and rod journals.  14 Tim is careful to drop...  14 Tim is careful to drop the crankshaft in place without nicking the micropolished journals on any of the block’s sharp surfaces or the ARP main studs. With the crankshaft safely in place, Tim checked once again for any debris or issues before moving forward. Remember, it pays to be meticulous and extra cautious throughout this entire process.  15 With the crankshaft in...  15 With the crankshaft in place, Tim carefully lubricates and installs the remaining bearings into the stock main caps and drops them in place, being careful around the journals of the crankshaft.  16 Next Tim uses a modified...  16 Next Tim uses a modified Jesel tool and a firm tap to set the thrust, something that is done with the main caps in place and ARP washers and nuts installed but not completely tightened.  17 Finally, Tim breaks out...  17 Finally, Tim breaks out the torque wrench and gets to work using ARP Ultra-Torque fastener assembly lubricant (PN 100-9911). Working from the center cap out, Tim torques the mains in sequence, tightening the center bolts to 60 lb-ft, 50 for the outers and 20 lb-ft for the side bolts, being careful to set each perfectly before moving to the next.  18 Our connecting rods are...  18 Our connecting rods are also from the Lunati Pro Series line and are CNC-machined from 4340 forged steel. Measuring in at 6.125-inches in length, these Lunati I-beam rods were pin fit (honed) to the Diamond pistons by Proline’s machinists prior to final assembly and feature ARP 2000 bolts, which have a torque range of 70-80 ft-lbs for .0053-.0057-inches of stretch.  19 Up top, these double hard...  19 Up top, these double hard anodized and Moly-coated custom Diamond pistons will be in charge of the sucking and squishing and were built specifically to handle big boost, tons of heat and extended horsepower pulls. With a 6.125-inch rod and a 3.622-inch stroke, these pistons will give us over 10:1 compression, which is perfect for what we have in store.  20 Installing the Diamond...  20 Installing the Diamond pistons onto the Lunati rods is a fairly tedious task if you’re not competent working with the supplied double Spirolox that Diamond includes. Tim prefers to stretch them out slightly prior to installing them, to help slide them into the piston after installing the wrist pin.  21 Once connected to the...  21 Once connected to the rod, Tim begins installing the ring package, which features a 1.5mm chrome steel top ring, a cast iron 1.5mm second, and a 3.0-mm standard tension oil ring from Total Seal. The lower oil control rings simply slide in place, while the top and second rings must be removed from the cylinders and installed on the corresponding cylinders before dropping the assembly in place.  22 Top loading the piston...  22 Top loading the piston and rod assembly is the only way to fly, and Tim uses a tapered ring compressor and a rubber mallet to slide everything in place. Obviously, it is critical to watch the lower portion of the rod as it slides down the bore, you don’t want it scratching anything on the way down or damaging the crank journals.  23 With the upper portion...  23 With the upper portion of the rod in place, Tim installs the rod cap and Calico coated bearing before sliding the ARP rod bolts in place, which he generously coated in ARP Ultra-Torque assembly lube before installing.  24 Once all of the rods were...  24 Once all of the rods were installed, Tim broke out the torque wrench one last time and began to torque them in sequence. As specified by Lunati and ARP, Tim tightened each bolt to precisely 75 lb-ft of torque (using ARP Ultra-Torque assembly lube), and then took the time to rotate the entire assembly over by hand several times to double check clearance and confirm that everything was installed correctly.  25 Last but not least, Tim...  25 Last but not least, Tim checked the final piston to deck height and confirmed one final time that the deck surface was square, the rods were the correct length and the crankshaft had the right stroke for our application. After this, we bagged up the engine and took it over to Vengeance Racing to complete the build, but you’re going to have to stay tuned for updates on that, which are coming next issue!
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Camaro ZL1 Morphs into “Freedom Fighter”
In a post-9/11 world, there are a multitude of organizations and individuals dedicated to helping veterans, both human and canine, adjust to life back home and aid with their health problems --...
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