LC2 Buttom End Engine Build - Power Trip

Underneath, he lubes up the Clevite 77 bearings, places the rod cap onto the rod and tightens the high-quality stock bolts to 40 ft-lbs.

All six pistons and rods are installed.

As we were smoking cigars, taking notes, and generally acting like we were working, "LS1" Ashley grabbed the greasy pile that was our stock engine bolts, threw in some elbow grease, and shined 'em to their former glory. Thanks, Ash!

The roller cam is slipped into the block, then some modification of the stackup assembly was needed to get the cam endplay where Cal wanted it. Typically for a race motor, he sets the endplay around .001 to .007; for street motors it's usually .010 to .015. Hartline prefers not to use the stock-type spring-loaded cam button to set the endplay, and instead uses a solid stop that can be shimmed to the correct endplay. A Rollmaster double roller timing chain and its sprockets are installed.

The .036 multi-layer Cometic head gasket is placed.

And a Champion head is placed onto the block.

Hartline recommends using ARP head studs for this build, as they have a more even clamping force over head bolts. Cal applies thread sealer to each one, then they are tightened down with an Allen wrench until they bottom out.

He likes to torque the heads like so: 45, 55, 65, then 75 ft-lbs. Lastly, the long studs get a final torque to 80 ft-lbs.

With one head on, we'll degree the cam. Cal checks at .050-inch lift numbers based off of the cam card, then he double-checks using the intake centerline. He finds that our cam is only a little over one degree advanced; this is not a problem, as when the timing chain wears this should take care of itself.

With the other gasket and head installed, our Turbo 3.8 is well on its way. Check out our next installment, when we finish up the engine build.